deeaa
Well-known member
Got the old Dremel out and now the truss rod is installed nice and tight.
There sure isn't much wood left under the truss adjust opening, and it was VERY hard to drill the hole from the said opening to the actual truss cavity, so that the 'bridge' of wood under the saddle holds the rod end securely yet the adjustment screw has just enough room to squeeze thru under the saddle and be, well, adjustable.
I had pre-cut the rod slot with a large machine, just used the dremel to deepen and widen it in places where the rod is bigger. I used sandpaper to carefully sand it to correct depth so it is flush with the to-be-glued fretboard. It is just a fraction of a millimetre high now, but can be easily pressed flush, so it should be real nice and tight when it's glued on.
Also designed the headstock shape a little further; it will taper towards the end a little so as for the strings to go almost straight to the machine heads, but not as sharply as in Flying V for instance, and I'm making it an asymmetric knife blade shape at the very end.
There sure isn't much wood left under the truss adjust opening, and it was VERY hard to drill the hole from the said opening to the actual truss cavity, so that the 'bridge' of wood under the saddle holds the rod end securely yet the adjustment screw has just enough room to squeeze thru under the saddle and be, well, adjustable.
I had pre-cut the rod slot with a large machine, just used the dremel to deepen and widen it in places where the rod is bigger. I used sandpaper to carefully sand it to correct depth so it is flush with the to-be-glued fretboard. It is just a fraction of a millimetre high now, but can be easily pressed flush, so it should be real nice and tight when it's glued on.
Also designed the headstock shape a little further; it will taper towards the end a little so as for the strings to go almost straight to the machine heads, but not as sharply as in Flying V for instance, and I'm making it an asymmetric knife blade shape at the very end.
