Crate V5 mods... anyone?

[schenkadere]

Well rather then wait for an answer to my beam blocker question I tried a simple test of using a relish jar lid propped against the grill cloth to see how things sound. I like the result the highs are slightly muted and the sound a bit more off axis. It is an easy thing to try yourself to see what you think. (See attached photo)
So instead of buying a blocker have decided to do the arts and craft thing and make my own. Looking in the recycling bin decided to use the bottom of a Mountain Dew can with some prepunched pipe hanger I have. You have to be careful cutting up the soda can to not lacerate yourself, once it is installed in the amp children and small animals should be safe from its sharp edges. The inside bottom of the can is domed so it looks like the real thing. To keep the dome in place I filled the void in the back with some calk I already had open. I might paint the thing or just use a magic marker to make it black. And yes that speaker in the picture is the stock V5 speaker it also makes a neat refrigerator magnet.

The clearance between the chassis and the speaker magnet is so tight after doing a speaker replacement that I can't imagine being able to install the beam blocker and still keep the magnet off the metal of the chassis.

 

[jim p]

beam blocker options

The clearance between the chassis and the speaker magnet is so tight after doing a speaker replacement that I can't imagine being able to install the beam blocker and still keep the magnet off the metal of the chassis.

I put in the post for "Changing the speaker on the V5" that maybe just a thin knit fabric might work to reduce the highs. Another way to go if the fabric doesn’t affect the sound much would be to attach the blocker to a piece of fabric stretched in front of the speaker inside of the cabinet. Last choice is to steal a Volvo grill and use that diagonal thing they have, not really but if the test works to give you the tone you want. Then be creative and try to think of a solution.

 

[jim p]

Feedback question

Has anyone out there tried feedback from the secondary of the output transformer to the cathode resistor of the second triode on this amplifier? I have tried an initial test where I needed to connect the red lead of the transformer to J4 and the brown lead to J5 to get the output in phase with the signal on R8. Then used a 100k resistor from the output to the cathode of the second triode but not sure of the over all tone because except for the screen resistor connection the amp is stock (not stock speaker). I am planning on making a head instead of a combo amp out of this one so was thinking of adding a presence control on it.
Note: I would not try this without a scope and signal generator because if the feedback is out of phase the amp may oscillate which might result in damage to amp. So use caution if you try this.

 

[schenkadere]

I put in the post for "Changing the speaker on the V5" that maybe just a thin knit fabric might work to reduce the highs. Another way to go if the fabric doesn’t affect the sound much would be to attach the blocker to a piece of fabric stretched in front of the speaker inside of the cabinet. Last choice is to steal a Volvo grill and use that diagonal thing they have, not really but if the test works to give you the tone you want. Then be creative and try to think of a solution.

Actually the Warehouse speaker doesn't give me any reason or need. I'm quite happy with my speaker choice.

 

[timothymegg]

What does very little gain and (clean and dirty) mean?

Hi Guys,
I have just read all the comments on this thread, and it looks like many of you are finding that this amplifier is a sleeper and can sound good if a few things can be changed. I thought I would drop a line here and tell you my reaction to all the stuff that is suggested here.
First thing (almost always) the speaker must go.
Second thing is that adding more parts, or trying to make a 'booster box' in the amp with the 'provided' op-amp is more technical than most owners could do confidently.
...
When the op amp was removed, there was very little gain to play with. You can get output tube distortion if you play it hard, with hot pickups and perhaps your favorite stomp box. I feel that some of the best distortion comes from those little boxes on the floor. 2 tubes are not going to get you a lot of gain...
My pedal layout in guitar into a homemade tube distortion box with one 12AX7 in it, then a dbx 119 compressor/expander, and then to a Picoverb for lushness.
... just try this if you really want all-tube sound.
Begin by cutting the trace after the input jack leaving R10,R11 for input loading. This will be just before pin 3 of op amp. Run a short length of coax from there to pin 2 of the 12AX7, and ground this wire at only one end (to prevent ground loops).
You will be cutting the volume pot out of the circuit and reroute wires as follows-keep the tone control circuit for now).
Connect the middle wiper to pin 2 of 12AX7. Cut out the R7, 220K resistor and the pot will take it's place for the load and volume control BETWEEN the two 12AX7 halves (this is so your guitar and/or you stompbox can play clean into the preamp tube or to push it more into output stage distortion)
Connect the top of the control to the junction of R15, R29,and C28: and the bottom to ground. Cut out the 100K (R15) (or R27, 10K) Resistor(s) so that the second half of the preamp tube is driving the same load. So you are basically removing R15, R27 and R7. You can increase the gain by floating a highish value resistor between the grounded end of the volume control (or a 500K or more pot) which gives you more drive voltage out of the second stage of the preamp, but I left that the way it is because it does give me the balanced sound (clean and dirty) that I want.
Mark (manoteal at cox dot net)

Mark, I really like how simple your mod is compared to JP. I noticed you said that there is a lot less gain for distortion. Are you saying with just a standard strat/tele/les paul and a cable direct into the amp you get clean at max volume on both? If not, at what level do you start to get overdrive or distortion? And, with a simple overdrive pedal you are saying I can still get the distortion sounds? does it have to be a distortion pedal? (I have both, just trying to know before I mod the amp)

Also, the tone pot on the amp - JP stated that the op amp controls part of the tone control. So, cutting out the op amp - did you notice a difference on the tone pot and what is the difference?

Thank you for your time, skill, and experience!
Peace,
Timothy

 

[schenkadere]

Has anyone out there tried feedback from the secondary of the output transformer to the cathode resistor of the second triode on this amplifier? I have tried an initial test where I needed to connect the red lead of the transformer to J4 and the brown lead to J5 to get the output in phase with the signal on R8. Then used a 100k resistor from the output to the cathode of the second triode but not sure of the over all tone because except for the screen resistor connection the amp is stock (not stock speaker). I am planning on making a head instead of a combo amp out of this one so was thinking of adding a presence control on it.
Note: I would not try this without a scope and signal generator because if the feedback is out of phase the amp may oscillate which might result in damage to amp. So use caution if you try this.

I like the idea of making this amp a head...that would be very cool...talk about compact!

I actually find the stock tone control more useful than a standard single tone control...but that's just me.

I got quite a bit more headroom by swapping the power tube for a lower current EL84.

 

[Tomko]

Jim P- V5 Tube Amp but still not satisfied

Jim P- I'm still around trying to make something out of this cheap amp. I put a 4.7K on the screen grid and soldered it to R25 on the R26 side. I also put 280 ohm cathode bias resistor on EL84. My plate is still about 335v but the screen grid is about 294v. I also changed R25 to 7.9K. This dropped my voltage on the 12AX7 plates from 200v to 180v. Do you think I'm in the ballpark on the cathode bias on the EL84? Do you think 180v or 200v is better for the 12AX7? I also removed the 2.2 uf cathode bypass cap from the 2nd triode and replaced the 2.2 uf cathode bypass cap with a 25 uf on the first triode. I'm still not satisfied with the sound. It's clean up to 5 but not all that expresive but then really gets going about 6-7 with a lot of good distortion, not much inbetween. Plugged into a 1-12 extension cab by itself it really roars when turned up. I may try a 2nd non-original speaker. Have two around. What do you think? Anyone else want to chime in?

Buyer beware: My amp had a 2.2 uf cathode bias cap on both triodes of the 12AX7; not one 22 uf as shown on the schematic. 2.2 uf limits bass response to about 500 Hz with a 1500 resistor. Normal Fender design is 22-25 uf with 1500 ohm resistor and 100 k plate load resistor. This lowers response to about 40 Hz. Also standard input resistor is 68k. IMO the 1.5k is way too low. Take it for what it's worth. Comments?

 

[Tomko]

Jim P screen grid R18 470 ohms

Jim
You are telling me I should be using the stock 470 ohm R18 screen grid resistor? I guess I wasn't clear on that. I had changed to a 1K and that seemed to work fine. I may have to use that value if I can't re-use or find a new 470 ohm 3+watt locally.
Thanks,
Tom

 

[jim p]

Screen grid resistor

Jim
You are telling me I should be using the stock 470 ohm R18 screen grid resistor? I guess I wasn't clear on that. I had changed to a 1K and that seemed to work fine. I may have to use that value if I can't re-use or find a new 470 ohm 3+watt locally.
Thanks,
Tom

The value of R18 the screen grid resistor should be 470 ohms if you need to use a 1 K instead I think that will be fine. Moving the supply side of R18 to junction of R26 and R25 is the important thing to reduce the screen grid voltage. You should measure the voltage across the cathode resistor to calculate the plate current (cathode current minus approx. 4mA screen grid current) and multiply it times voltage across the tube (plate minus cathode voltage) to see if you are 12 watts or less. I don’t think having the cathode bypass value of 2.2uf is a problem that would give you a 3 db down at approx 50Hz. Old designs were into a factor of 10 greater then required. Also for the guitar 190Hz(My mistake lowest frequency is 82Hz)is suppose to be lowest frequency and having it at 2.2uf helps reduce 60Hz amplification (hum). The plate supply for the triodes should have dropped approx 20 volts with your value change to 7.9 k at R25 that should not be any real problem.

 

[jim p]

An all tube mod with no cuts just jumpers

On the mods where the op amp is not used you should be able to use CW1 the volume pot with no cuts to the board. Just cut all the pins off the op amp and remove them from the board (or desolder and remove the op amp intact if you want). Then remove C25, C27 R2 R14 R28 R15 and R27. Then jumper what was pin 7 of the op amp to ground hole of R27. Replace R15 with a short or any value less then 1K ohms. Jumper op amp pin 6 to other side of R27 you can go twisted pair or coax if you want to the R27 connections. Now R27 is a variable resistor for volume control. Next jumper Pin 3 of the op amp to the junction of R2 and R1. This connects the ¼ inch input jack to the grid of the first triode.

For the tone stack at minimum remove C5 no mater where you set the tone pot this will cut the highs starting at 1.5 kHz. While C4 is odd it starts to cut the highs again as you are turning the tone pot up I would remove it it’s your choice.

Replace lost pre emphasis the op amp boosted the highs so with the tone stack you could go treble cut, flat or boosted. If you replace C1 the cathode bypass cap with a 200nf cap this will boost the highs starting at 500 Hz. From what I was reading about tube screamers this may work better for overdriving the amp also because will overdrive highs more then bass and should be less muddy.

SEE POST #168 FOR MORE DETAIL

Any errors here let me know thanks.

 

[timothymegg]

Thanks - simpler is better-I Hope

On the mods where the op amp is not used you should be able to use CW1 the volume pot with no cuts to the board. Just cut all the pins off the op amp and remove them from the board (or desolder and remove the op amp intact if you want). Then remove C25, C27 R2 R14 R28 R15 and R27. Then jumper what was pin 7 of the op amp to ground hole of R27. Replace R15 with a short or any value less then 1K ohms. Jumper op amp pin 6 to other side of R27 you can go twisted pair or coax if you want to the R27 connections. Now R27 is a variable resistor for volume control. Next jumper Pin 3 of the op amp to the junction of R2 and R1. This connects the ¼ inch input jack to the grid of the first triode.

For the tone stack at minimum remove C5 no mater where you set the tone pot this will cut the highs starting at 1.5 kHz. While C4 is odd it starts to cut the highs again as you are turning the tone pot up I would remove it it’s your choice.

Replace lost pre emphasis the op amp boosted the highs so with the tone stack you could go treble cut, flat or boosted. If you replace C1 the cathode bypass cap with a 200nf cap this will boost the highs starting at 500 Hz. From what I was reading about tube screamers this may work better for overdriving the amp also because will overdrive highs more then bass and should be less muddy.

Any errors here let me know thanks.

I like how you described the tone parts. This mod seems much simpler than your other mods! I'm still comparing this mod and deafelectromark's. I like the idea of not having to jumper the volume pot.

Jim_P - does the tone part of this mod work alongside deafelectro's mod?

Thanks,
Timothy

 

[schenkadere]

Hey guys...do you really feel this cheap little amp is worth all of this...or is it simply the challenge of doing it?

 

[Tomko]

schenkadere- probably not worth all the trouble I've put into it but there is something to the challenge of making a crappy $75 amp into a single ended all tube amp- if it sounds good! I allready had a couple extra speakers. Have you seen the price of a vintage Champ lately?

 

[goonrick]

I did my mods both for the challenge and to get a good sounding all-tube single-ended amp. I must say I'm pretty happy with the results. It was easier to do the mods than to build one from scratch and it costs way less.

 

[jim p]

tone stack question

I like how you described the tone parts. This mod seems much simpler than your other mods! I'm still comparing this mod and deafelectromark's. I like the idea of not having to jumper the volume pot.

Jim_P - does the tone part of this mod work alongside deafelectro's mod?

Thanks,
Timothy

I posted the mod because you do not have to cut any traces on the PCB this way and if you are not using the op amp just cut it out. So far none of the mods I have posted involve any cuts. The deafelectro mod makes no changes to the stock tone stack, what you want to do with the tone stack is up to you. As I have said the op amp provided a treble boost before the tone stack if you do not replace that some how the tone control will just be a treble cut. I posted another tone stack for all tube previously with a 220k resistor and a resistor and capacitor in parallel to add back in the boost. But changing the value of the cathode bypass capacitor to 200nf may be a better way to go if you plan on overdriving the input triode. Some people have put in the Lite II tone stack the only thing I can see about that that I don’t like is the tone control interacts with the volume control looks like you will need to increase the treble with volume to maintain the highs because the tone control is hooked to the volume pot wiper.
Another reason I posted this mod was that you do not have to remove the pots which some people are having a problem with. I have been taking parts out of PCBs for years so it is no problem for me. The op amp can just be removed by cutting off all its pins then just heat and remove them, me I have a desoldering tool and desolder each pin then remove the op amp in one piece and can use it elsewhere.

 

[SciHi]

another tone stack option

I drew up an alternate tone control for Rock Mumbles based on "that" tone control. It has been used on VJ mods. Somewhat similar arrangement of caps and resistors but pot needs removed for this one also. Wrong resistor values on the first on, this one corrected:
http://i615.photobucket.com/albums/tt237/scihibmxer/v5tonestackmodcorrect.jpg

 

[schenkadere]

schenkadere- probably not worth all the trouble I've put into it but there is something to the challenge of making a crappy $75 amp into a single ended all tube amp- if it sounds good! I allready had a couple extra speakers. Have you seen the price of a vintage Champ lately?

Forget about vintage...look at the prices of any of the Fender amps...through the roof! Lucky I'm not a fan.

I'll be honest...I'm incredibly picky and consider myself an ultimate tone seeker on a budget and with the few simple mods I made on the V5 and the addition of a graphic eq in front, it has become one of the best clean amps I've ever owned. I'm pleasantly shocked. I couldn't be happier. I can't understand all the hate for this amp...what can one expect for a $79-99 tube amp...come on!

Good luck with your mods, guys....hope you achieve the tone you seek!

 

[jim p]

No op amp modification with pictures

This is the no op amp modification with the op amp removed a continuation of post #160. How you get the op amp out of the board is up to you, basic way is to cut off all pins and remove them one at a time. Also can desolder all the pins and remove op amp in one piece.
Steps involved in modification after removing PCB from chassis

1) Remove op amp IC1, C25, R28, R14, C5, C4, R27, R15 and R2
2) Replace R15 with a jumper
3) Jumper from op amp pin 3 to junction of C25 R2 and R1 (amplifier input jumper)
4) Jumper from pin 7 of op amp to ground via of R27 (black wire in picture)
5) Jumper from op amp pin 6 to junction of R27, R15, R7 and pin2 (grid) of 12AX7 (orange wire in photo near volume pot)

Options:
Remove R7 for higher maximum signal on grid of second triode.
Short R30 or R29 and remove C28 for more maximum signal at grid of second triode.
Remove C27 and use the vias (plated holes) in the PCB to connect rheostat (pot) to location of R27. Makes for shorter jumper runs on PCB.
Replace loss of pre emphasis for tone stack by replacing C1 with a 200nf cap (voltage rating of 6 volts or greater) so tone control will be treble boost, flat and treble cut. Or instead change R9 to approx 220k and add a Resistor and capacitor in parallel with it for treble boost.

See attached pictures.
Picture of tools used to remove op amp, resistors and capacitors. Also to remove solder from PCB vias.
If you get a vacuum desoldetring tool best to use fresh solder to make better thermal contact with solder joint to be desoldered. Also allow enough time to heat joint before pulling the trigger on the desoldering tool count in your head 1001, 1002… for 10 to 20 sec. Remember ground plane connections and large component leads will require more time for good results. Keep in mind too much time will lift the copper trace from the PCB making for a rework job.
If you see any errors please let me know, thanks.

 

[deafelectromark]

Gain with op-amp removed

Mark, I really like how simple your mod is compared to JP. I noticed you said that there is a lot less gain for distortion. Are you saying with just a standard strat/tele/les paul and a cable direct into the amp you get clean at max volume on both? If not, at what level do you start to get overdrive or distortion? And, with a simple overdrive pedal you are saying I can still get the distortion sounds? does it have to be a distortion pedal? (I have both, just trying to know before I mod the amp)

Also, the tone pot on the amp - JP stated that the op amp controls part of the tone control. So, cutting out the op amp - did you notice a difference on the tone pot and what is the difference?

Thank you for your time, skill, and experience!
Peace,
Timothy

HI Tim,
The amp in the stock form wastes 90% of the signal in the sound path. Since I remove the op-am, I simply 'get back' my gain from the 90% losses in the voltage divider. The tone stack is altered by the changes I make the circuitry, which alters impedance, loading and frequency response. I found this to be very slight compared to stock, so I left it as-is.
Guitar directly plugged in will give you a mostly clean sound up to half way, where is starts to crunch when you hit the strings harder or have high output pickups. All the way up and you are in full distortion and it is plenty loud as it is driving the output tube into saturation. So to answer your question- plugging straight in, get a reasonable volume approximately like a Fender Champ, or Gibson GA-5. Probably a bit louder.
Using pedals and outboard gear (fuzzes, compressor, EQ's, etc.) I only have the amp at the 9 o'clock position (1/4?). It is easily as loud as stock, so no worries there.
I have done a couple of mods for a couple of guys that have this amp and you should hear what they have to say about my mod. I charged them $40.00 plus shipping to do it and I have boards ready ahead of time since I now have two amps to compare each other to Stock and modded. I can get SPL measurements if you want for comparison, but my mod also reduces the hiss and noise dramatically.
Mark

 

[jim p]

frequency responce of tone stack simulations

The attached pictures are spice simulations of the tone stack at full treble with and without pre emphasis. R4 represents the output impedance of the first triode in the amplifier 100k plate load with 65k plate impedance in parallel plus 22k R9 in series at input to tone stack. R6 is the load of the volume control 220k plus 250k the value of this has little effect on frequency response curve. On the op amp the values are the same as in the V5 I set the pot in the feedback to a fixed value of 33k ohms. C1 and R2 are same as C26 and R28 in the amplifier and are the pre emphasis for tone control. I removed the capacitors in this simulation that are C5 (2.2nf) and C4 (4nf) in the V5 tone stack.
With pre emphasis there is a 10db gain from 200Hz to 3 kHz with the tone control at maximum that is shown in the screen capture of the simulation.
Without pre emphasis the frequency out is flat within a db from 200Hz to 5 kHz so no boost of the highs. So without putting pre emphasis back into the amplifier after you remove the op amp the tone control will just be a treble flat or cut without boost. You can replace boost by changing the value of the cathode bypass resistor of the first triode to a lower value approx 200nf. Or change R9 to a higher value of say 220k with a resistor and capacitor in parallel to cut the bass and boost the highs.
Sorry the images are so cropped but that is the size allowed for the post.
I can also run this simulation with spice model of the 12AX7 but the results should be similar to the ones shown.

 

[larryx]

deafelectromark aka the GOD OF MODS V5 mod results (IMHO)

:master: Hello gang, Just wanted to throw something out there for those of us who are electronics challenged (but actually guitar players!)I cannot begin to praise the MOD GOD ([email protected]) For 40 bucks plus a few dollars for shipping Mark cut though the technical blah! blah! blah! balonie and made my V5 amp sound better than I could have ever expected! This thing sounds as good or better than a friends modded Gipper GA5 and Fender Chimp and with ((no more irritating hiss!) Yes the annoying hiss is completely gone forever!! A miracle!!! With the help of a Marks expertise and a replacement speaker. I now have "ONE KICK *** LITTLE AMPLIFIER!!!!!!!! Now I'm sending Mark my whole family of V-series amps so he can work his magic on them as well!!So put your money where Marks bionic ears are and get him to mod your V series amp. This guy talks softly but carries the weight of the world of tonal bliss on his shoulders. Your "Tonal Bliss" is just a UPS sticker away!!So let Mark mod your Crate V-5 amp and then "JUST SHUT UP AND PLAY YOUR GUITARS !WILL YAH!!! THANK! YOU! MARK! (The Man o Steel) I mean ([email protected]):master: :bravo: :rotflmao: :beer: :AOK: :rockon: :dude:

 

[oldguy]

That's great news, Larry! 3 cheers for Mark, then. I've been following this thread for awhile, and it's very interesting and informative.

With over 170 posts in this thread, it would be nice if the new members (who haven't done so) introduce themselves in "TheFretPlayers" section.........there's some great info here, and other members who would benefit from meeting some of you new folks.
Thanks.

 

[larryx]

Reference point?

:AOK: Wow! I don't know what your use to playing through? I had a hard time getting anything that sounded even close to a guitar amplifier out of it! I have played through better sounding transistor radios! I mean the V5 pior to having (deafelectromark) mod it, was by far the worst sounding guitar amphs I have ever heard. Someone gave me an Estaban little P.O.S. amph that smoked the V5 (in its stock form!) The speaker was replaced right away with a Jensen MOD 10-35.But that made almost no difference in the sound of it! It wasn't until after deafelectromarks ([email protected])modification did the amp come to life. And man did it! I sounds as good as an old Fender Tweed. Without any effects a or anything the amp sounds like a tube jewel from days past, only much quieter!!With my Korg AX1500 dialed into it with some eq and reverb it's delicious! I don't play through any of my higher wattage amphs anymore!It sounds that good!!Screaming Metal sounds,bluesy jazz sounds. It's all there! I took the stock speaker and tore the speaker cone out of it before pitching it in the gabage with a big. SEE YAH! .............Thank You Once Again Mark!!!!([email protected])is the solution to getting amazing sound out of this little hamster cage!!!!!!!!!!:AOK:

 

[msteeln]

When it comes to Crate amps...

...quite possibly the best they ever or will ever make, is the decade+ old Vintage Club 30. Notorious for sloppy wiring, repairs needed, etc., but even with stock componants, you'll be hard pressed to find a better 2X12 for rock/country/blues/alt, even the nastiest metal if you put a pedal in front. User reviews are usually glowing. As I've read in searches about this amp, a few simple tube mods and they can even improve, substantially.
It's my #1 match for my late 40s bakelite Rickenbacher 8 str. lap steel to get the great old spooky Hawaiian sound, but I got to dime every single knob, except vol., to saturate, which causes fits of repair.

And, they go dirt cheap...

 

[Spudman]

...quite possibly the best they ever or will ever make, is the decade+ old Vintage Club 30.
And, they go dirt cheap...

If you are talking the old blond ones then I'd love to find a VC30 dirt cheap. I've been looking for a while and it seems the word is out. I do still have my blond VC5212 and it does sound great.

I just realized I don't know anybody on this thread.

 

[msteeln]

And, I got it free... thank you, Don Ho!

If you are talking the old blond ones then I'd love to find a VC30 dirt cheap. I've been looking for a while and it seems the word is out. I do still have my blond VC5212 and it does sound great.

Mine's the later(?) w/black tolex. It's due for a complete elec. overhaul and upgrade so it can hand against the abuse but not change the tones.
The 1X12s go even cheaper (duh...), but I can't imagine them sounding as good as the 2X12.

 

[deafelectromark]

Crate V5?

Hello Mr. Moderators, sirs!
Thank you for membership. Lots of good guys with much overlap into other fields, and lots of opinions that make for genetic diversity.
I had a 2x8 inch speaker with old musical instrument Radio Shack speakers, and wouldn't you know it- it FRIED one of them with the V5. The bass is so strong that it tears cones and burns out voice coils- and this is with my amp setting at 9 o'clock (!?) I found another pair of 8's (I am using eights because it is the biggest thing that my wife will allow in the living room). I put the Crate on top and it looks mighty big for practice. You would be surprised at the bass in a sealed cabinet- even with only 8 inch speakers!
The speakers I replaced from Rat Shack are a pair of full range German high-fi speakers made by Dual. They are VERY sensitive (we're talking 95+ dB per watt). I decided to play it safe and maybe get a few more days out of them by doping the surrounds with black RTV silicone and small brush. You would think it would affect the tone, but having a 'rubber' and paper surround doesn't effect it much.(Maybe a bit less treble?)
All this from a 5 watt tube amp blowing up 20-30 watts of speakers? I am glad the Eminence in my combo is 50 watts, less bass that the 2X8 cabinet, but at least it won't fry. Beware the power of tubes in saturation!
What happened to the talk about the V5? Are we heading into another direction from the last few posts?
Mark

 

[schenkadere]

Hello Mr. Moderators, sirs!
Thank you for membership. Lots of good guys with much overlap into other fields, and lots of opinions that make for genetic diversity.
I had a 2x8 inch speaker with old musical instrument Radio Shack speakers, and wouldn't you know it- it FRIED one of them with the V5. The bass is so strong that it tears cones and burns out voice coils- and this is with my amp setting at 9 o'clock (!?) I found another pair of 8's (I am using eights because it is the biggest thing that my wife will allow in the living room). I put the Crate on top and it looks mighty big for practice. You would be surprised at the bass in a sealed cabinet- even with only 8 inch speakers!
The speakers I replaced from Rat Shack are a pair of full range German high-fi speakers made by Dual. They are VERY sensitive (we're talking 95+ dB per watt). I decided to play it safe and maybe get a few more days out of them by doping the surrounds with black RTV silicone and small brush. You would think it would affect the tone, but having a 'rubber' and paper surround doesn't effect it much.(Maybe a bit less treble?)
All this from a 5 watt tube amp blowing up 20-30 watts of speakers? I am glad the Eminence in my combo is 50 watts, less bass that the 2X8 cabinet, but at least it won't fry. Beware the power of tubes in saturation!
What happened to the talk about the V5? Are we heading into another direction from the last few posts?
Mark

So, do you do V5 mods for other than friends and family? What would be involved?

 

[larryx]

Crate amps/Yes there is turd polish!

:master: :bravo: VC's are an awsome amphfffff!! I've had a VC50 for years. As well as my much loved BV60H. I also have modded /corrected versions of the entire V series MKll line. V-18 212,V-33 212,V-33H and now thanks to (([email protected]))a modded and much loved V-5! The statement that you must have been refering to was directed at the V-5 in its stock form. And yes. In its stock form it was one of the worst sounding amplifiers that I have ever heard! SS or tube! So,no need to defend Crate. I still have some of their amps and love them. I own other brands such as Fender,Marshall,Vox.
I'm not partial to any of them. They all serve a purpose. And the Crate amps would fool anyone in a blind taste test. And the MKll's were a steal!! That's why I ended up with the family of them! Although I play the V-5 more than any of them! Now that it has been transformed into a smokin little amplifier!!
So stop wasting your time everyone. Stop reading these long winded posts regarding the V-5 mods. Just check in with deafelectromark(([email protected])) And forget about all the turd polishers out there. He has the ((quick and easy)) solution to getting this amp sounding right. No techno voodoo about it!! Now who's got the big swingin technical#$%^. Can't read anymore crap ola about a 68 dollar amplifier. Enough already!!!!!!!:thwap::beer:

 

[larryx]

The Fret? Or The Circuit Board?

:thwap: :"OH MY GOD JIM! I'M A DOCTOR! NOT A DAMN GUITAR AMPH TECHNICIAN!"
"EASY THERE DR.McCOY.BONES"WE WILL JUST CALL ON MR.SCOTT" I THINK HE SAID SOMETHING ABOUT DILITHIUM CHRISTALS AND A 49 PICO FERAD CAPACITOR WILL TAKE US BACK TO WARP SPEED" ANY OF YOU ACTUAL GUITAR PLAYERS?THIS IS THE FRET. NOT THE CIRCUIT BOARD!