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Epiphone Valve Jr.

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WW - I was gonna' ask you about that electro-reso you have on your avatar. Man, I bet that sounds nice through the VJ. Not sure what stuff interests you as far as that guitar tone is concerned, but I may have a listening tip for you. There's a dude named Eric Sardinas that plays some mean, cutthroat slide on an electro-reso like yours. I saw him this past summer when he opened up for Steve Vai. He was incredible - killer tone, awesome performer, great tunes. Very much in the style of Johnny Winter, but with a decidedly rock edge to it. Anyways, thought you might want to check him out. I have his "Devil's Train" CD, and it's smokin'!
 
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Nelski - You played it wearing funny hats? hahahahahahahahaha
Somehow I just picture you as the Cat in the Hat when you said that.

Warren - I've yet to try it with the Monkey but I know it's gonna smoke using it as I loved how the Blues Driver (the Blue Monkey as my daughter calls it) works on it. Tonight it's gonna be slide city and Les Paul while burning in my new tube upgrades to it.

Guys,

Thanks for all your insightful comments. I know exactly where you're coming from Nelski about breaking in the amp. It was like that when I first got the Vox too. I just nodded my head to what you had to say about it.

Alright I suppose I should have used my amp a little longer before I spent $40.00 on tube upgrades for it but oh well thats me. I went and purchased a Groove Tubes GT-12AX7-M (Mullard-type) preamp tube, and a matching set of J & J Electronics EL-84s. The amp of course only uses one EL-84 but the shop doesn't sell single power tubes. I figured if the Mullard preamp Groove Tube was good enough for a Dr. Z Mini Z then it was good enough for my Epi V Junior. Besides I have had great luck using that particular tube for my Marshall preamp. Call me picky but think it will work even better. ;)
 
My reference to the funny hats was indeed "Seussian". Got a few of 'em, too - they seem to channel good mojo my way when I'm playing. Now that you mention it, I might have to think about getting myself a "Cat In The Hat" lid!! Look forward to hearing about how those GT's sound in your Epi.
 
Valve Jr. Mod Links

After I'd purchased my Valve Jr. a few months back, I did a little research as to how they could be "modded". Seems that a lot of benchtop guitarists are taking these amps to the next level by modifying the working electronics. Stuff like this is WAY above my head, though it is interesting to see what other players are doing with them. The Valve Jr. has a very basic Class "A" design, and like some of the classic, low-watt tube amps of yesteryear, it can be "tweaked" to suit a player's particular tonal preferences. Just like the good old days!! :)

Here are the links:

http://www.coolpick.com/way/cool/about/valvejunior.html
http://www.euthymia.org/DIY/VJmods.html
http://guitargeek.com/chat/showthre...&highlight=epiphone valve junior&pagenumber=1
 
Nelskie i was wondering if you did a re-bias on those new tubes when you installed them , pre-amp tubes are fine to replace without rebiasing but power tubes should be biased to ensure the correct plate voltages ...just wondering...6S9L
 
Well . . . er . . . ah . . . no. Should I have? And how is "re-biasing" accomplished? Can I do this now, after I've already installed the tube? Or, will I be forced to get another?

Geez, I shoulda' had a post on this BEFORE I did my mods. :(

I'd surely appreciate your insight on this, 69SL.
 
Nelskie, yeah when replacing power tubes biasing is a neccessity, it ensures the proper plate voltage that your amplifier was designed to operate at , it will also determine the life of your tubes, too much voltage will dramatically reduce the life of the tube too little will result in poor sound , biasing involves using a bias-reading device between the power tube or tubes and their sockets..i'm no expert here , but look for glow spots on the plates inside the tubes this generally indicates to much voltage , dont mess around inside that puppy if you have no experience , there is enough voltage to give you a very bad day, the voltage could easily be lethal my friend ,, best advice is ti take it to a amp tech or a good electronics shop and have them re-set your bias , then you will realixe the maximun from your amp and have tubes that will last a long time .... http://studentweb.eku.edu/justin_holton/bias.html heres a link to check out ..i'll find you a better link to explain things in a more technical way , i dont know if anyone on the list has any experience regarding tubes and bias , but it needs to be done right , i should have noticed this earlier as i have read your posts but it just dawned on me this evening , i doubt you have done any damage but i thought you'd want to know , besides if you have real tube amps your gonna have maintance issues over time , my advice is to make friendly with a good tech... 6S9L
 
A GOOD LINK ...http://www.geofex.com/tubeampfaq/tafaqndx.htm

Nelskie read this first ..its from the above link..... WANNA TALK TO YA NOT ABOUT YA...6S9L

CAUTION CAUTION CAUTION



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Keep in mind that tube amps use high voltages, and they can *kill* you if you don't know what you're doing. So, if in doubt, leave the job to a qualified technician.

How do you correctly bias an amp? There a few different approaches but first hook up a speaker or a passive load to the output and remove any input signals; tube amps need to have a load or they can sometimes become unstable. Check and make sure the proper size fuse is installed.

Output Transformer Shunt Method
The most common and simplest procedure is to hook a current meter from the plate (anode) across half of the primary of the output transformer; this is called the "output transformer shunt method." The idea here is that milliammeters commonly have a very low series impedance so that when placed in parallel to half of the primary, almost all of the current flows through the ammeter. When you hook things up this way, your meter is floating at the voltage level of the plate, which is typically hundreds of volts -- be very careful! You could open the wire from each plate to the output transformer and hook in a meter in series with the plate temporarily, but that is a terrible amount of work for the small gain in accuracy.

Adjust the bias pot so that the current reading is the appropriate value for the type of tube (see the table below). Let the amp warm up and note if the bias changes significantly. If so, select a compromise bias point.

Keep in mind that if your circuit uses more than one tube per side, the bias current you're reading is multiplied by the number of tubes (e.g., if you're reading 60 milliamps and there are two power tubes per side, if the tubes are matched each of the two are getting nominally 30 milliamps). Check the other side of the circuit to confirm that the two sides are close (within 5 milliamps) to each other.

If your ammeter has too high a series impedance, the shunt method won't work because the bias current gets significantly split between the meter and the transformer; the meter has no idea how much current is going through the transformer. You'll know it's not working because the current values you'll be reading will be much too low no matter how far you adjust the bias pot, the tubes will be glowing hot, and when you note that you'll reach quickly for the power switch! If you don't reach it quickly enough, you might blow a fuse. Don't despair: you can use another method called the "cathode resistor method."
 
Man, this is all so . . . technical. Here I thought swappin' tubes was like putting in a new air filter. Shows you what I know. That being said, I will heed your advice, and solicit the services of an experienced amp technician. I appreciate your informative posts, and excellent links.

By golly, I learned somethin' new today!! ;)
 
Nelskie said:
WW - I was gonna' ask you about that electro-reso you have on your avatar. Man, I bet that sounds nice through the VJ. Not sure what stuff interests you as far as that guitar tone is concerned, but I may have a listening tip for you. There's a dude named Eric Sardinas that plays some mean, cutthroat slide on an electro-reso like yours. I saw him this past summer when he opened up for Steve Vai. He was incredible - killer tone, awesome performer, great tunes. Very much in the style of Johnny Winter, but with a decidedly rock edge to it. Anyways, thought you might want to check him out. I have his "Devil's Train" CD, and it's smokin'!

I dig Eric Sardinas too! In fact my favorite slide of the moment is a dunlop eric sardinas model that is heavy brass and tapered.

As for my elctro-reso it is a chepo brownsville model from (gulp) sam ash. It was an impulse buy....was their last one and they were discontinued....got it for 199 with a new set of strings and a gig bag. I LOVE IT.

Heres all the info i could find on it (very little on the web and there is no book for it):

Tone switch is also a push pull that kicks in the rear p/up under the dobro biscuit, and believe me it has the full sound that accompanies the twang of a full scale dobro OR SLIDE.

Further, in that position the guitar can also be fretted to incorporate a GREAT country lead effect I've never before found in any guitar.

Tuners are Julia enclosed tuners and holds tuning superbly.
Year Range: 2005
Neck Wood: Mahogany
Fretboard Material: Rosewood
Number of frets: 22
Pickups: Neck - Humbucker
Piezo under the cone
Body Type: semi hollow body
Country of origin: china or korea
Finish: Lacquer
Color: White
Hardware: Nickel
Neck Attachment: Set neck
Body material: Alder

a very fun guitar that not many people sem to have!

ww
 
WW - Having an electro-reso would be waaaaayyy cool. I wish my local shop would get one in, so I could try one. Sounds like you got a sweet buy on yours. I have a buddy who also plays a Brownsville guitar, too - styled in the vein of a Les Paul. It sounds very nice through his Fender Blues Jr. Anyways - thanks for sharing some info on your guitar.
 
Well, now that 69SL has enlightened me on the amp-biasing issue, I've been wondering if a few of the points made during my initial review on this amp were partially, if not wholly, subject to my own ignorance on this particular point. I assure all of you that it was completely unintentional. If anything, let it serve as a good point, in that no matter how long you've been playing, you can ALWAYS learn something new.

Even though I can dial in cool distorted tones using pedals, and while pushing higher volume levels, the biasing issue seems to be a very relevant one, and certainly one that I plan on correcting. In the mean time, I'm going to re-install my original Sovtek tubes today, and see if that makes any difference in how the new speaker responds to the higher volume settings.

Tone - I know you'd mentioned that you'd swapped out tubes in your VJr., so perhaps this would apply to your situation as well.

Hope to have a follow-up review on the VJr. in the works sometime here in the next few weeks.
 
This is just an FYI for those of you who might be "on the fence" about getting one of these 5W wunderkind Valve Jr. amps. Musician's Friend has raised their price on this amp $20, from $119 to $139 US. I would assume that the other internet music sites will eventually follow suit. Not that this amp isn't still an incredible bargain at $139, but at $119 its a downright ridiculous bargain. Perhaps Epiphone has also realized that they should be making more money on these amps, too.

Anyways, I think I may just snap another one up now, so I can run that delicious Epi Class "A" tone in stereo!! ;)
 
Ummm . . . my dog ate them? Yeah, I should really try and get a few up. Thanks for the reminder.
 
Was just browsing the Epiphone website, and saw that they are coming out with a "head only" version of the Valve Jr. for 2006. Same 5W, same tube section as the amp version, with outputs for 4, 8, and 16 ohm speakers. Akin to its combo amp brother, the cosmetics of the Valve Jr. head are keeping with the vintage-retro flavour, sporting black and reddish-brown tolex, gold badging, and white pipe trim all around the facing. Too cool!

Music123 has these listed on their web site (but not yet in stock) at $99!! Yeah, crazy ain't it?!! 99 clams for a genuine tube amp head!! My Peavey Classic 112E ext. cab seems to be begging for some new action, esp. with that cagy, new Eminence Swamp Thang speaker in it. Now wouldn't that be a lot of fun - running the already tasty Valve Jr. tone wide open through a closed-back ext. cab with capable 12" speaker?!! Damn! Count me in boys! :D

Here's some links:

http://www.epiphone.com/default.asp?ProductID=269&CollectionID=13
http://www.music123.com/Epiphone-Valve-Junior-Head-i408743.music
 
Gee, hadn't thought even thought about that. A matching cab would be way cool. Man, you gotta' love what Epiphone is doing with their line of amps - both the tube and ss stuff. I saw your & Matt's posts on the Triggerman combo, and totally agree that it's one sweet looking rig. You might also want to check out their new Blues Custom combo amp, too - due out mid-summer 2006:

http://www.epiphone.com/default.asp?ProductID=270&CollectionID=13

I'm fairly certain that one of these will find its way into my studio.
 
I switched the preamp tubes back to the sovteks also because the GT tube was acting microphonic but I think it's because of the design of the small amp at loud volumes rattling the insides. I put the GT tube in my Marshall and it's fine. Of course there's way more room on the M anyway.
 
I put my Sovteks back in a few weeks back, and it seems to have cured the "buzzy-ness" I was getting at the higher volume levels with the new speaker. I'm going to try some other tubes here in the next month or so (Electro Harmonix, Groove Tubes), and see what that does. I do have some low $$ mods planned for it down the road, and perhaps when that time comes, I'll have it re-biased as well. Who knows, re-biasing it for those J & J's might just might be the Wonka Golden Ticket for that amp . . . ?
 
Ok I am stupid. Please tell me what is so great about a 5 watt amp. Can you compare it to the VOX AD30VT if possible.
 
Tim - First off, you are definitely not stupid, and neither is your question. The very question you have posed was one of my very first major discoveries as a guitar player. Let me shine some light on it for you.

For starters, the Valve Jr. is not "just" a 5W amp - it's a 5W Class "A" all-tube combo. Some of the greatest music ever created first eminated from combo amps very similar in design to the Valve Jr. One that readily comes to mind is Led Zeppelin I, with Pagey playing a vintage-era Telecaster through a little Supro amp. As tonally earth-shattering as that album was, it is a mere speck of sand on the beach of contributions that small tube amps have made to music as a whole. Players in all generes of music have employed their much sought-after tones - blues, jazz, rock, country, alt. rock, pop, etc. The list goes on forever. Since these amps have been around since the beginnings of electrified amplification, they are truly a step back into the past as far as sound and tone are concerned. Yessir, the vintage "vibe" of these amps is totally unmistakable. I am not an electronics whiz, so having me explain the nuances of Class "A" tube amplification vs. the Vox ADVT series amps would probably not do justice to either. They are two totally different animals - one employs technology well over a half-century old, and the other is on the cutting edge of modern hybrid / digitally-amplified circuitry.

So how does this cool tone happen? Well, it goes something like this: a tube amp with a lower wattage allows you to "drive" the tubes to their natural saturation point, and therefore, obtain that sweet, organic tube distortion so many guitarists dig - at a volume level that won't peel the paint off the walls. In a higher-wattage amp, let's say a 100W Marshall, you have to crank the volume to get those same tube distortion characteristics, which for some, isn't a bad thing. A small-watt tube just lets the same thing happen at sub-Hendrix-at-Woodstock volume levels. Granted, this is a layman's explanation of the effect. There are many more knoweledgable, gear-oriented Fret.Netters than myself, and hopefully, there is more follow-up to your post than just myself.

I still remember the day I posed your same question to one of the guys down at my local shop - probably 1985 or thereabouts. Being more or less enamored with metal music at the time, I scoffed at the idea of a small combo having anything to offer the modern hard rock player. He told me to stop down after school the next day. So my friend and I did. He brought his 50's era Tweed Fender Champ (a small-watt tube combo amp), plugged it, let it warm up a few minutes, cranked the volume, and said, "boys, listen to this." To demonstrate the awesome effect of this amp, he pulled a nice dual HB B.C. Rich Mockingbird (a beautiful deep wine-red metallic guitar w/ abalone inlays - a guitar which my friend eventually bought) off the wall, and proceeded to blow our minds with some of the most savagely distored heavy metal licks our young, solid-state brains could comprehend. It was pretty damn loud, too! My friend and I, of course, were floored, and from that point on, we've both had a whole new appreciation for vintage-era tube gear. By the way, that guy still owns that amp, and it sounds even better today. I demo'ed a G & L Tele exactly like the one I have now through that same rig, and I must say, it had THE coolest Stones-y tone I've ever heard. He also enjoys relaying that story to friends and customers at every possibly opportunity, after of which he will demand that we buy him a beer for, as he would say, "showing us the light"! Indeed.

There numerous sites on the 'web that compare tube tone to solid-state, modeled, and hybrid amp tones. The first thing I would suggest is that you do a little research, and familiarize yourself with the inner workings of each type of amp. And since tone is a relatively subjective issue, I would encourage you to head down to your local guitar shop, and play a few low-watt tube combos yourself. Your take on it will likely be far different from mine.

I always find it more rewarding to learn things like this for yourself, rather than have someone else tell you about it. The tube "thing" is truly one of the most "ear-opening" experiences I've had in my (23) years of guitar playing. It is also my hope that this "discovery" opens some new doors for you, and your own playing. It certainly did for me. ;)
 
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hey tim...you can give my epi valve jr. a good test when we get together! we can compare it to my vox ad30vt (although its like comparing apples and oranges)

ww
 
Wow! I did not know all this stuff about tube amps. I thought tube amps were made for volume only. And of course distortion.
 
The other thing you need to remember is that wattage is not directly proportional to volume. It's logarithmic. To double the loudness, you need 10x the power. In other words, 10 watt amp will NOT be twice as loud as a 5 watt amp. (Obviously I'm oversimplifying, because different speakers and the number of speakers will make a difference too). Plus, tube amps sound best when cranked, so obviously it'd be better to have a 5W amp in your den than a half-stack.
 
Tube amps tend to be much warmer sounding than their solid state counterparts, and that is one reason why many guitarists love them. BTW, you will note that the majority of modern bass amps are solid state, I believe because, for the most part, that warmth is not really as desired by bassists.

As previously mentioned, as a tube amp is pushed, it starts to distort. Capturing that warm tube distortion has been a primary goal of effects manufacturers for years. Of course, as a tube amp is pushed into distortion, the volume increases as well. A 50 watt amp being pushed into distortion can be loud enough to have the local gendarmes knocking at your door post-haste. Because of this, a small amp like the Valve Junior makes sense.

Now, that said, I can adjust my pre and post gain settings on my 50 watt Peavey Classic so that I can get really sweet distortion at low volume levels, that don't bring on the wrath of either my neighbors, the police, or even any of my family members. Of course I paid far more for my CLassic 50 than the cost of an Epi Valve Jr.

BTW, as an interesting aside, I can easily drown out my 220 watt bass amp playing my Les Paul through the cranked 50 watt Classic. In fact, I've heard of bassists requiring an amp in the 500+ watt range to punch out over a good 50 watt guitar amp pushed to its max!
 
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