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Epiphone Valve Junior Modifications

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duhvoodooman

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The 5W Epiphone Valve Junior has certainly gotten its share of press here at TheFret.net, being the subject of the longest single thread in this forum's brief history (212 posts and counting as of today, 6/20/06), and deservedly so. This little gem has quickly established a cult following, since it offers genuine class A tube amp vibe for a ridiculously low price ($140 for the combo, $100 for the head). And you can pick up used examples of the combo version in good condition on eBay for well under $100 (I got mine for $92).

But rather than further effuse over its goodness, which Nelskie, Tone2thebone and others have already done in the aforementioned thread, I thought I'd post my experiences, both completed and in progress, with modifying this amp to improve its tone and performance further. Nelksie talked about swapping tubes and changing the stock speaker, but I want to get into some more fundamental changes here, involving making additions and substitutions in the amp's electrical chassis componentry. These modifications are covered in much more detail on some other websites, and I won't endeavor to go into the technical depth they do. But these are the websites where I found all of the information that I base my following comments upon, so check them out if you want more detail:

Erik Miller's VJr Mods at Euthymia Electronics

Dennis Cronin's VJr Mod Site

Svokke's VJr Mod Page

Brian Oddi's VJr. Mod thread at Kluge Music

VJr Mod Thread at Hoffman Amps

As good as the original combo version of the VJr was, it had some shortcomings, too--completely understandable in an amp this inexpensive. First and foremost is it's propensity to hum. In fact, the amp hums in two completely different ways--a low-level background hum that is independent of the amp's volume setting, and a more obnoxious "buzzy" hum that builds as the volume is increased. On the VJr combo I bought, the former was practically unnoticeable to me, but the latter was pretty bad with the volume up past 2 PM or so. I found several different mods that were designed to reduce either or both of these hum types, ranging from very simple to fairly involved. The good news is that none of them are expensive, so I elected to do several of them and see how much improvement I could get. (Note: These hum deficiencies were addressed in the head version of the VJr, and I understand new production of the combo incorporates the fixes, too.)

A second shortcoming that I noticed in my VJr was a rather dull tone, lacking "top end". I found myself maxing out the treble tone controls on all of my guitars when I played though it. Though the mod sites listed above tended to go after the hum issues as the primary improvement need, all of them made changes that boosted the amp's top end to some extent, as well, so I was obviously not alone in my opinion. Since I don't often crank the volume up into the range where the buzzy hum gets bad, I actually considered this need for more brightness to be my first priority. I swapped the stock Sovtek tubes for JJ's from Eurotubes.com, and though the amp's tone improved and brightened slightly, the improvement was nowhere near what I was looking for.

In addition to the above two issues, a number of other mods were described at these various websites, mostly falling into the category of enhancements to the VJr's intentionally sparse feature set. These included things like adding a high gain switch, an additional 8 ohm output jack, or installing a small light bulb to act as a signal attenuator. However, I had no personal need for or interest in any of these, and opted to pass on implementing them.

To deal with the hum issues, I decided to make the following four modifications:

  1. Improve grounding on the PCB by adding a jumper wire between two of the traces. This corrects a grounding design deficiency.
  2. Replace the stock input jack with a nylon insulated jack, to isolate it from the chassis.
  3. Add a larger filtering capacitor (100uf/450V) to the main high voltage supply to supplement the smaller stock caps.
  4. Convert the voltage supply to the tube heater filaments from AC to DC, requiring the addition of a small bridge rectifier and 1000uf/25V capacitor.

    To improve the brightness characteristics of the amp, I opted for two additional mods:

  5. Boost the amount of input signal going to the preamp stage and reduce the signal bleed to ground by changing two resistors on the PCB. The resistor change also causes a net increase in the input impedance of the amp, which effectively boosts the highs a bit.
  6. Add a switchable tone capacitor to an open position on the PCB, i.e. install "brightness switch".

Progress as of 6/20/06:

Hum Fix: Finished #1 and implemented a temporary version of #2, basically using a rubber washer and some strategically applied electrical tape to isolate the stock metal input jack from the chassis. In the meantime, the parts for #'s 3 and 4, plus a real nylon insulated jack to do #2 right, are on order from Mouser.com. At this point, the background hum is essentially inaudible, but I haven't implemented the fixes (esp. #4) that will hopefully tame most of the volume-dependent buzz.

Brightness Boost: Completed #5, resulting in a noticeable boost in the high-end, but I still want more. Additionally, the amp's effective gain was increased by changing the resistor to ground to 1M ohm, sending more signal to the preamp. This made the amp noticeably louder at a given volume setting. It makes the volume-dependent buzz proportionally louder, too! I have the parts on order from Mouser.com for mod #6, as well--a simple on/off toggle switch and some ceramic capacitors in sizes of 50, 68 and 100pf. I'll start out by installing the 68pf cap and see how the brightness sounds when switched on. If it's not enough I can go up to the 100pf cap, and if it's too much, I can back off to the 50pf. These caps cost less than a buck each, so I figured why not get a couple to experiment with?

I'll update this thread further after I receive and install the additional mod parts, hopefully by later this week. BTW, the total of all the parts only came to about $22, so these are definitely not expensive mods to make!
 
Part II....

The parts for the additional mods arrived from Mouser.com yesterday, and I got everything installed during my lunch hour today, with the help of an accomplished solderer. Specifically, the following mods were completed:
  • Replaced the stock input jack with a nylon insulated jack, isolating it from the chassis.
  • Added a larger (!) filtering capacitor (100uf/450V) to the main high voltage supply to supplement the smaller stock caps.
  • Converted the voltage supply to the tube heater filaments from AC to DC, by installing a small bridge rectifier and 1000uf/25V capacitor.
  • Installed a tone capacitor to an open position on the PCB, and connected it to an on/off toggle on the front panel, creating a "brightness switch".
Here's a simple schematic of the Valve Jr's PCB, showing the mods that were done today on the board itself, plus the resistor change I made a few days ago:

VJr_mod_schematic.gif



Here's a photo of a portion of the PCB itself, showing some of the mods, circled in red and numbered:

VJr_mod_PCB_2.jpg



The mods shown are as follows:
  1. The bridge rectifier and 1000uf/25V capacitor. The orange wires formerly connected to terminals T5 and T6 on the PCB, but now connect to the rectifier, whose + and - terminals now connect to those board terminals.
  2. 68pf tone capacitor, soldered to one of the two open C3 terminals on the PCB. The other end is wired to the toggle switch in the panel face (#5), and the other side of the switch is wired back to the second C3 terminal.
  3. The two resistors (R1 and R2) that were substituted for the stock resistors, per my original posting.
  4. The back of the new nylon insulated input jack.
  5. The back of the "brightness switch" toggle.
Here's a different view of the PCB, showing the big 100uf/450V filter capacitor , which is wired in parallel with the smaller filter caps on the board. The connection points are circled in red. The capacitor is lashed down to the board with a wire tie fastened to an adhesive anchor pad.

VJr_mod_PCB_1.jpg



And here's a photo, courtesy of Dennis Cronin's web page, showing where the grounding jumper is installed on the back of the PCB:

jumper.jpg



Since we're limited to 4 images per posting here, and I have one more, I'll close this posting and continue in the next one....
 
Part III....

Lastly, here's the finished product, all reassembled and ready to run. The only giveaway that the amp has been modded is the brightness toggle at the left side of the front panel:

mod_VJr.jpg



And what did this all accomplish, you ask?

Well, a whole bunch, actually. The ambient hum is completely gone, to my ear. The volume-dependent buzz is much reduced, and far less "buzzy" in character now. More of a true hum, and no worse than I get with my Delta Blues cranked up. I don't even notice it until the volume is at 3/4, and I rarely play there, anyway! So the four hum fixes have definitely done their job.

As for brightening the tone, mission accomplished there, too. The resistor changes made a difference, and the new brightness switch takes it the rest of the way there. With the switch on to engage the tone cap, the top-end brightens up nicely. Makes a noticeable difference with both single poles & humbuckers. I like it so much I'll probably just leave it "on" most of the time. I'll post an audio clip or two in the coming days, so y'all can hear how she sounds.

So there you have it, Fretters. If anyone has a question, drop me a PM or ask it here. And I've got all the part numbers I ordered from Mouser.com, if you want to try any of these mods on your own Valve Junior! If an electronics ignoramus like me can do it (with some soldering help!), anyone can!
 
DVM - Again, fantastic post. Shows what a little ambition and "can-do" attitude can accomplish. That brightness switch, though, really has me curious soundwise. I'll look forward to hearing your sound clips, so make sure you have one with / without it engaged.

And . . . although you did list the individual parts in each of the descriptions, it'd be really nice to have a working list - just so one can get all the parts at once, and not forget anything. And since you already have the parts #'s - even better.

BTW - what are you running for tubes in your Jr. these days . . . NOS? I have an "inkling" to try out one of those Groove Tubes Mullard re-issues in my amp, just to see what happens. ;)
 
WOW!

Now that's some great information. You layed it out beautifully, with great detail. I've never had any real electronics training, so I'm still a little "fuzzy" (how about, in a fog?) when it comes to reading schematics. Your photos with the accompanying explanations and details are first rate. I don't think I'd have any problem following those instructions to completion!

Great work!
 
Nelskie said:
And . . . although you did list the individual parts in each of the descriptions, it'd be really nice to have a working list - just so one can get all the parts at once, and not forget anything. And since you already have the parts #'s - even better.

I believe they call that a BOM which is an ancronym for "Bill Of Materials." At least that's what I've seen it called over on the 18watt.com amp-builders site.
 
Nelskie said:
DVM - Again, fantastic post. Shows what a little ambition and "can-do" attitude can accomplish.
Aw, shucks! (blushes) Thanks, Nelsk. It was fun, for a tinkerer like me.

Nelskie said:
That brightness switch, though, really has me curious soundwise. I'll look forward to hearing your sound clips, so make sure you have one with / without it engaged.
Exactly my intention. Hopefully, it comes through clearly in a recorded clip. It's not a "night & day" difference, by any means--just a nice additional "sparkle" at the top-end that I find pleasing.

Nelskie said:
...although you did list the individual parts in each of the descriptions, it'd be really nice to have a working list - just so one can get all the parts at once, and not forget anything. And since you already have the parts #'s - even better.
A BOM, indeed (that Bloozcat is pretty sharp with his engineering terms!). Your wish is my command, sahib. The attached ZIP archive contains both an Excel spreadsheet and also a screenshot GIF, for folks who don't have Excel:

View attachment 263

Nelskie said:
BTW - what are you running for tubes in your Jr. these days . . . NOS? I have an "inkling" to try out one of those Groove Tubes Mullard re-issues in my amp, just to see what happens. ;)
I have a pair of JJ's in there. A standard ECC83S for the preamp, and a "graded" EL84 for early breakup. I couldn't see putting $50 worth of NOS tubes into an amp I paid $90 for, and which is going to be used primarily by my son to torture his Squier Tele....
 
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Thanks for the BOM, Voodoo. Your Junior project looks like a great Saturday afternoon DIY activity, as well as the perfect way to get my feet wet in the wild, wooly world of "home-grown amp modding" . :eek:

I'll watch this thread for the sound clips.
 
A couple of additional comments on the BOM items:
  1. You'll notice that the resistors needed for the R1/R2 changes aren't listed. That's because I got them right here at work for nothing. One 1 M and one 22K. Same with the 1/4 female spade connectors I used, and the wire.
  2. I listed three different tone caps in the BOM--50, 68 and 100pf ratings. You'll only need one. I'd skip the 50 completely, and go with the 68 by default, or the 100 if you really like a bright, jangly tone. On the other hand, they're only about 70 cents each, so it wouldn't hurt to get a couple.
 
Brightness Demo Clips....

Here's a couple of audio clips I recorded with my Valve Jr's new brightness switch off and on. Clip descriptions:

#1 - My Epi LP with tone controls at midpoint. The same basic riff is played twice, first with the brightness off, then with it on. The first pair is recorded with the p'up selector in the middle position, i.e. with both p'ups. The second pair is the bridge p'up only.

#2 - My Strat, with the treble controls dimed, to accentuate the highs. The first pair is recorded from the neck p'up and the second pair, from the bridge. Again, the first of each pair of riffs is with the brightness off, and the second with it on.


With the 68pf tone cap, the effect is fairly subtle, but clearly audible. If you were looking for more brightness than this, the 100pf tone cap would be the way to go. I may change it at some point, just to hear the difference for myself. But it sounds just about right to me now, so maybe not! ;) :D :DR
 
DVM - You're right, the difference with the brightness switch "on" is clearly audible - and yeah, it does sound good. Out of all the clips you've posted, the tone that really stands out to me is your Strat with the neck p'up, with the brightness switch "on". Very tasty! Those new Texas Specials sound like they're doin' the trick for you.

After all those mods, pictures, posts, and now . . . clips, I'd say it's time for you to go get a cold one, grab the Strat, plug in to the Jr., and enjoy the fruits of your labor. Nice job, my friend! ;)

I'm waaaaaayyyyy stoked to dig into my Jr.!!!
 
Thanks, Nelsk. It being Saturday and all, I'll probably do exactly that at some point! :DR

Also, notice what you didn't hear in the "dead air" spots between the clips--hum. At the volume setting I was using, there's no audible hum or buzz at all. :D
 
"Voodoo Mod"

DVM - Went to Mouser.com this morning, and ordered the parts for my Valve Jr.'s "Voodoo Mod". If they're here at Ice Station Zebra (aka NoDak) by the latter part of next week, I should be knee-deep in creamy, hum-free Class A mojo come next weekend!! Provided that I don't electrocute myself! :D
 
Jr. gets another pre-amp valve . . . ?

Yes, you've read that right. Dr. Ampenstein has found yet another way to turn our favorite little tube amp into an even bigger tone monster! And this by adding more front-end gain. It may just be the Wonka Golden Ticket to true low-watt, Class A nirvana. Here's the link:

http://members.optusnet.com.au/eyes.only/vj_mods_3/vj.htm

Voodoo - whaddya' think? Could you pull this off? ;)
 
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No, thanks! I mean, I'm sure it's doable, but if I need more gain control, I'll just hookup the old Tonebone to it! A lot less trouble.... :DR
 
duhvoodooman said:
No, thanks! I mean, I'm sure it's doable, but if I need more gain control, I'll just hookup the old Tonebone to it! A lot less trouble.... :DR
Yeah, I agree. The Junior doesn't really need another tube. But I think you could count the one in the Tonebone as #3, right?!! ;)
 
Black Magic

For those of you who’ve read the duhvoodooman’s fantastic Valve Jr. Mod mod page, and heard the sound clips, you already have a pretty good idea as to the potential of the Epiphone Valve Jr. amp. There’ve been numerous comparisons of the Junior to other low-watt wunderkind – but apples to apples, it would be safe to say that the Epi is undoubtedly playing the role of Rocky Balboa vs. either of any of its higher-priced competition.

I’ve been using my Valve Jr. amp in semi-stock form (new tubes & speaker) for about (10) months, and in that time, have come to appreciate the genuine nuances of its tone. Still, every time I plugged in, I couldn’t help but wonder whether or not there were gains to be made with the implementation a little electronic wizardry.

Using the DVM’s mod page as my base, I purchased the required parts for my project from Mouser.com, and they arrived shortly thereafter. Mouser is a good place to get quality electrical components at a reasonable price. Shipping was quick, and the parts were well-packed. A trip to Home Depot for a battery-powered soldering pen, and I was ready to turn my Junior to a bona-fide tone machine.

After a few test-soldering runs, I felt I was ready to make it happen. My first undertaking was to solder a small jumper wire on the bottom of the board. And so, I patiently applied my limited soldering skills to this task. After nearly an hour and a half, and still no success, I came to the frustrating conclusion that the task of modding an amp was probably best left to people who are more adept to this kind of thing - - not to mention to someone with at least modest soldering skills – which I obviously did not have. Even though I was a bit let-down about not being able to execute the mods myself, I did give it a shot - - which in my book counts for something. My point here is this: even basic mods do require some skill and knowledge. If you don’t feel that you can take the job from start to finish – let a professional do it. It’ll save you a lot of headaches – and of course, a lot of frustration.

Now that that the mods are finally done, I can definitely say that the amp sounds even better - and I really liked the way it sounded before. Here is my take on some of the key aspects of the Voodoo Project:

1.) Hum – Virtually non-existent with a humbucker-equipped guitar. Much, much better with a single-coil equipped guitar – most particularly at higher volume levels. Now, we must understand that “hum” is inherent to the Class A amp design, irregardless of what Obi Wan Kenobi says at Amptone.com. So, unless you want to fork over another $700 - $1,000 for a real boutique number, any advances you can make in this territory with the Valve Jr. should be measured with that in mind. These mods do a very good job at reducing ambient hum, which in turn, allows more of that great Class A tone to come through.
2.) Brightness switch – In my opinion, this is the mod that really pushed this project over the top. Having the option to brighten up the tone on this amp is like giving your Strat (5) more p’up positions. Or, for you Lesmeisters – (3) more p’up positions. Currently, I am running a Weber Alnico 8S speaker in my Jr., and the bright switch really takes full advantage of the “chimey” vintage-type tones that are the trademark of this type of speaker. I used the 68 pf cap, and would agree with DVM’s observations that this is the perfect medium. However, your own preferences may require more, or less, in this dept.
3.) Response – As I’ve mentioned on my previous posts, the Valve Jr. is an extremely responsive amp. The smallest variances in pick attack and guitar vol / tone adjustments are transposed by the amp into magical tonal mojo. The new mods have most definitely enhanced the responsiveness of the Junior – particularly in the depth and definition of the tone. As I played my Korean Strat through the amp, I marveled at how the notes “jumped” out of the speaker. Major chords had a resounding “fullness”, and increased sustain – both with and without the brightness switch engaged.
4.) Volume – I wasn’t expecting any increases in this area – and yet, the amp now seems to be louder. Part of this could be attributable to the J & J tubes I am currently running, which break up just a bit earlier than the stock Sovteks did, and have a “grittier” attitude. It may also coincide with the characteristics of response, as are noted above.
5.) Overall Tone – Reducing the ambient noise has had a significant effect on the overall tonality of the Valve Jr. It is almost like I am hearing this amp again for the first time. And now being face-to-face with that fact, it is somewhat perplexing that the design engineers at Epiphone weren’t able to come to this same conclusion. But, as we’ve touched on many times here at Fret.Net, even simple improvements can have a dramatic effect on overall tone. This project is a perfect illustration of that fact.

These recent mods cost me $73 - $23 for the parts, and $50 for the labor. Added to the $165 I had into the unit prior to this ($119 for the amp; $26 for the tubes, $30 for the speaker), this brings the total of outlay for my Valve Jr., in its current form – to $228.00. In my book, its been money well-spent. And despite its diminutive size, the little amp produces some very BIG tone.

So what else is there to compare the Valve Jr. to tone-wise? Well, for starters, you may be able to procure a 1968 or later Fender Champ for around $300 - $350, or slightly more depending on condition. A Fender Blues Jr. will push you into the $400 range. The Crate Palomino and V-5 Series are two other low-watt Class A amps that will fit the bill nicely, and are both in that $350 - $400 range as well. I’ve played all of these amps, and would now put my Valve Jr. in the same league as these amps. Bottom line – there’s probably a Benjamin and some change to get you to that next level in the low-watt Class A feeder chain.

As for comparisons to real boutique numbers – there are none. This is a mass-produced Chinese amplifier, constructed with cheaply-made components, and stricken a bevy of design deficiencies. But with the right approach, and a little good ol’ American know-how, there are some fantastic tones to be had.

In closing, I would give the Epiphone Jr. “Voodoo” Mod Project two solid thumbs up. These are all cost-effective mods make a huge difference to an amp that already rocks right out of the box. If you have a jones for a low-watt Class A amp, I’d say that you should at least consider the Valve Jr. as a starting point, and then seriously consider employing these mods to your amp. You can always move up into a vintage, or higher end Class A model. The Jr., in stock or modified form, will allow you to explore the gamut of fabulous tones that this amp design is famous for - at a cost that won’t leave you gasping for air.

My next plan for my Valve Jr. is to mate it’s vastly improved tone with an Electro Harmonix Holy Grail reverb pedal. The results of that endeavor may just require me to change my nickname to “Indiana”. ;)
 
Ok you guys are starting to get to me...(GAS).. I have a 5 watt tube amp.. Harmony H410 with a little 8in speaker and Tremelo built in... but all this talk about this Epi got me wondering... My problem is..I never can find sound clips on how this amp without and with mods sounds.. I am wondering if I would just be wasting money by already have'n one very similar? can anyone point me to some great clips on these amps?

Whats the comparison to other 5 watt amps? I know gibson has theirs at around $500.. so price there leaves them out... You can buy a vintage amp on ebay from makers such as Harmony for $100-$200? Crate has their V-Series58 around $250 with better celetion speaker etc which would call for no modding (seems like a neat little amp) and older version 508 (don't like the looks)... another words...is this amp really worth doing all the mods to if others are available? (don't wanna burn my fingers with a soldering gun..:) )

Is all this excitement for this $140.00 combo or $100 head really worth it? .... Hmmm... GAS ... GAS...
 
Justaguyin_nc said:
Is all this excitement for this $140.00 combo or $100 head really worth it? .... Hmmm... GAS ... GAS...
Yes, Justa, the excitement about these amps is indeed real - as if you'd need me to tell you that. Go to Harmony Central, or just Google "Valve Jr." - you'll find hundreds of sites & reviews that are clamoring about this little tube-powered gem

Unfortunately, there aren't many before / after mod sound clips out there, so deciding to incorporate the mods may seem like a shot in the dark. However, I will be honest in telling you that the combo mods listed on DVM's page do, in fact, accomplish what they say they will - they lower the ambient noise, and brighten the overall tone. The new head version, as I understand it, has noise reduction circuitry, so you wouldn't have to do anything there - except maybe change out the stock tubes.

I did find a site that had some clips of a Valve Jr. head running through various cabinets. Check them out here:

http://www.instituteofnoise.com/L6/ampclips.asp#Epiphone

Sometimes "pulling the trigger" is the hardest part about getting a new piece of gear. You can try to "justa-fy" it many different ways, but it all boils down to wanting it, and then getting it. I think once you have a chance to play one of these amps at length, you'll know first-hand what all the fuss is about. This is one hot little rig. ;)
 
Man Robert, you line that Valve Jr. head up with a nice cab / speaker, and you'll have yourself one smokin' hot tube combo. I run my Jr. through the 112E ext. cab (equipped with an Eminence 12" Swamp Thang) that I use with my Classic 30, and that rig totally rocks! If you swap out the stock Sovteks for some choice tubes - you'll be set! :cool:
 
Yeah, Nelskie, it should be fun with a good cab! It seems a good cab costs a bit. The one I'm looking at is the Avatar 1x12 - http://www.steamcomusic.com/avatar/documents/g112.html would be towards 400 bucks shipped and with taxes. Not's so bad I guess, it seems like a great cab from the reviews.

Hey, the local store has this Hartke 4x12 - http://www.samsontech.com/products/productpage.cfm?prodID=1740&brandID=3
Review here - http://reviews.harmony-central.com/reviews/Guitar+Amp/product/Hartke/GH410+Cabinet/10/1
Seems cool! But it takes up some space of course...

Uhoh, the review was for the 4x10, which seems to be discontinued... the 4x12 doesn't get the same review.
 
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Yeah Robert - I saw your post on these Avatar cabs a week or so ago. If I didn't already have that Classic 112E, as well as the Tech 21 Power Engine, there'd definintely be an Avatar cab in my arsenal.

As for the Valve Jr. / Avatar 12" combo - man, I bet that would just smoke! You'd need to have a fire extinguisher nearby for sure! If that's what you're thinking, I'd be PM'ing the Bloozcat & DVM for some tube recommendations.

All-in-all, I think you'd be really happy with the Valve Jr. head. It takes to pedals really well, has awesome tone, can drive anything you put behind it, and best of all - ALL tube power. ;)
 
Justaguyin_nc said:
but all this talk about this Epi got me wondering... My problem is..I never can find sound clips on how this amp without and with mods sounds.. I am wondering if I would just be wasting money by already have'n one very similar? can anyone point me to some great clips on these amps?
Here's a couple of quick clips, one with my Strat and the other with my Dot. Starts clean, gets dirty (courtesy of my Tonebone).

 
duhvoodooman said:
Here's a couple of quick clips, one with my Strat and the other with my Dot. Starts clean, gets dirty (courtesy of my Tonebone).

Thanks alot DVM... the DOT had a real nice ZZtop sound to it comming from the Valve Junior... Ok ok Im hooked.. Maybe a Epi Head and some cab.. SoCal 4x12 looks cool for $299.00... :) Would like to hear all of LaGrange thru it..:)

On a side note: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M7krcTLWDpo has Brooks and Dunn teamed with ZZTOP... watching at the end I think Ronnie Dunn wet himself, he had such fun playing with the boys from texas... great vid if you got the time..wa wa wa.. Brooks plays a good Harmonica..

:R :R
 
valve jr. head demo

Here is quick demo I made of the v.jr. head I have through an Avatar 2x12 cab. A rush job recorded w/ a cheapo audio technica pro 3L mike, complete with me tapping my foot at one point. Didn't even know I did it till I played it back. Anyway, hope it is helpful. The little amp is bone stock. Added some effects later in the clip. If a good picker "ahem" got hold of one of these, it could really sing.
http://savefile.com/projects/864564

By the way, does anyone know an easy way to convert WAV file to Mp3 to send so it loads fast. Right now I convert wav to mp3 as I burn to CD, but can't do it without burning up a disc. Suggestions? Thanks for any help.
Glenn
 
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