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My thrift store score!!

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Pickngrin

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I stopped in to Goodwill on the way home from work today and found this killer Traynor YRM-1SC tube combo amp (4 x 12)...for the most thrifty price of $50.00 !!!! I was shocked to find it there. It powered up fine and when I brought it home and plugged in my Hamer, she sounded sweet. It has tremolo and reverb. The tremolo works but the reverb doesn't. I just took out the reverb tank and see that the black wire on one side is broken. It is supposed to connect to the small red plastic piece, which is wrapped with some sort of tape. I'm hoping that if I resolder this, that the reverb will be back in service. I'm just not sure where or how to resolder the wire, given that the connection site is covered. I'm not sure if this piece is called the transducer or not.
I'm so stoked about this amp, but haven't really played it much since I got home as I'm trying to get the 'verb going first... Any ideas?

check out the pics...

traynor1.jpg

traynor2.jpg

traynor3.jpg

traynor4.jpg
 
luvmyshiner said:
Woah dude! Sweet score. How does it sound?


Thanks :-) It sounds sweet. And since I have some recent birthday cash in my pocket, my wife can't complain about my (ridiculously cheap!) purchase :-)
 
Heh, heh, wife definitely can't complain. Especially when it costs less than a tank of gas did a few months ago.
 
I see that I need a new reverb tank, as the super-fine wires to the transducer are impossible to solder at this point. Hopefully a new reverb tank will do the trick. I was just playing the amp and realized that only two of the four 10" speakers are playing. It looks to me like someone had done a somewhat cheesy job of wiring the speakers, and I'm not sure that they're connected properly. Can someone tell me the proper wiring for four speakers?
Also, do I stand a chance of finding an Accutronics reverb tank in a retail store or do I need to order online?

Thanks
 
Amazing score! BTW, that's a 4x10, not a 4x12, I'm pretty sure. I wouldnt give up on the reverb so easily. If you can just get a small blob of solder on the contact point and "tin" the fine contact wire with a little solder, you should be able to just touch the wire to the melted solder and get a workable connection.

Re: the correct speaker wiring, here's a webpage I found with some good diagrams:


You'll need to know the speaker impedance ratings and the amp output impedance, and match them up.
 
duhvoodooman said:
Amazing score! BTW, that's a 4x10, not a 4x12, I'm pretty sure. I wouldnt give up on the reverb so easily. If you can just get a small blob of solder on the contact point and "tin" the fine contact wire with a little solder, you should be able to just touch the wire to the melted solder and get a workable connection.

Re: the correct speaker wiring, here's a webpage I found with some good diagrams:


You'll need to know the speaker impedance ratings and the amp output impedance, and match them up.

Thanks, Duhvoodooman-
Yeah, my error, I meant 4 x 10 (wishful thinking? ;-)
Re: the reverb tank... there are two wires that go into that transducer, and after removing some of the yellow tape wrapping the coil, I can't see how I would find the two separate contact points for the black and green wires.

I'll check that link you sent. Hopefully, someone just goofed when they rewired these 10s. Interestingly, it looks like there are 2 different speakers in there, 2 of each type (2 have a box-like metal enclosure around the speaker magnet, and 2 don't)...
 
Wow, great score. I've never heard a Traynor, but I've read the comments here by enough people that speak highly of them.


If you can just get a small blob of solder on the contact point and "tin" the fine contact wire with a little solder, you should be able to just touch the wire to the melted solder and get a workable connection.

DVM, I can finally follow what you are talking about. I learned Greek in one night.
 
I second what DVM says above....I just recently fixed a laptop that had a bad display on on it.....the wires were completely severed and were this really fine stranded wire....I had to strip it back twist them together tin each side of the broken wire...then twist those together and put back together with heat shrink tubing.....it was not alot of fun....but very doable.
 
Thanks, guys. I love hearing about scores like this too :D
Regarding the reverb tank, I cannot locate the two individual leads connecting to the transducer coil. After exhausting that possibility, I tried just soldering both the green and black wires to the copper wire of the coil... but still no dice. However, if I vibrate or move the reverb tank a bit, I do hear that springy sound through the speaker. I'm fairly convinced that the tank is the reason that the reverb doesn't work, but can't be certain (it's possible that there's a 2nd weak link in the chain). I am going to call around later today and see if I can possibly find one locally, though I doubt it.
 
Why not drop an email to [email protected] for service manual, schematic, wiring diagram, and/or parts list or contact:

Traynor Amplifiers USA
4625 Witmer Industrial Estate
Niagara Falls, NY
USA 14305
Phone (716) 297-2920
Fax (716) 297-3689

Can't hurt!
 
Rocket said:
Why not drop an email to [email protected] for service manual, schematic, wiring diagram, and/or parts list or contact:

Traynor Amplifiers USA
4625 Witmer Industrial Estate
Niagara Falls, NY
USA 14305
Phone (716) 297-2920
Fax (716) 297-3689

Can't hurt!

Just emailed them...thanks!
 
Pickngrin said:
Just emailed them...thanks!

When you get the schematic, take a look at the reverb tank. I would bet that it is an Accutronics. If so, you can probably get a replacement if you can't repair the existing tank.

Good score on that amp, from a quick Internet search that particular amp is rare and fairly valuable. :AOK:

tung
 
tunghaichuan said:
When you get the schematic, take a look at the reverb tank. I would bet that it is an Accutronics. If so, you can probably get a replacement if you can't repair the existing tank.

Good score on that amp, from a quick Internet search that particular amp is rare and fairly valuable. :AOK:

tung

Thanks... yeah, it's an Accutronics type 4, I believe
 
Congrats on that bargain........looks like you scored big on that baby!
Most of those older Traynors were good build quality, and for the money, you can spend a little and still come out on top. :AOK:
 
I initially thought that I was only getting output from 2 of the 4 speakers because of poor wiring, but it occurred to me (duh) that I should actually test the other 2 speakers, and as it turns out, they're shot (ie, no output when I connect them individually to the line out of another amp).
The two speakers that are working, fortunately, are CTS 064121 (137-7534). I know nothing about amp speakers but I just looked them up and apparently that model was used in Super Reverbs. Interestingly, there are no visible markings (model numbers or anything) on the 2 defective speakers. Given that I want to replace the reverb tank now and can't really devote much money to my toys at present, I am considering replacing one of the 2 broken speakers (running on 3 for the awhile). I know speaker choice is subjective, but where do I even begin choosing? I've seen the Jensen Mod 10" for about $30. Would something like that fit (sonically) well in this amp?
Any other suggestions?

Thanks again
 
A better way to check speakers is to use a digital multimeter, if you have one. If not, get an inexpensive one, they are nice to have for checking various guitar related circuits. Set the meter to test for resistance and measure the two terminals on the speaker. You should get a lower reading than the impedance. For instance, if you measure 6 ohms, the speaker will be an 8 ohm speaker. A 16 ohm speaker will measure about 12-15 ohms, DC resistance. A 4 ohm speaker will measure 3.2 ohms or so.

As far as recommendations, you might want to check out speakers from Weber. They make an entire range from inexpensive models all the way to very expensive ones. http://www.tedweber.com/

tung

Pickngrin said:
I initially thought that I was only getting output from 2 of the 4 speakers because of poor wiring, but it occurred to me (duh) that I should actually test the other 2 speakers, and as it turns out, they're shot (ie, no output when I connect them individually to the line out of another amp).
The two speakers that are working, fortunately, are CTS 064121 (137-7534). I know nothing about amp speakers but I just looked them up and apparently that model was used in Super Reverbs. Interestingly, there are no visible markings (model numbers or anything) on the 2 defective speakers. Given that I want to replace the reverb tank now and can't really devote much money to my toys at present, I am considering replacing one of the 2 broken speakers (running on 3 for the awhile). I know speaker choice is subjective, but where do I even begin choosing? I've seen the Jensen Mod 10" for about $30. Would something like that fit (sonically) well in this amp?
Any other suggestions?

Thanks again
 
tunghaichuan said:
A better way to check speakers is to use a digital multimeter, if you have one. If not, get an inexpensive one, they are nice to have for checking various guitar related circuits. Set the meter to test for resistance and measure the two terminals on the speaker. You should get a lower reading than the impedance. For instance, if you measure 6 ohms, the speaker will be an 8 ohm speaker. A 16 ohm speaker will measure about 12-15 ohms, DC resistance. A 4 ohm speaker will measure 3.2 ohms or so.

As far as recommendations, you might want to check out speakers from Weber. They make an entire range from inexpensive models all the way to very expensive ones. http://www.tedweber.com/

tung

I'm not sure if I understood you correctly. Using a multimeter to test the speaker is a better way to check it than connecting the speaker to an audio source? I initially tried my digital multimeter and it read 1 on one of the speakers and I think it was just under 4 on one of the other ones. However, neither of those two speakers produce sound when connected to a live audio source.
 
Maybe I should have said safer. If you use a tube amp to check speakers and the speaker is open, you risk damaging the amp. It is also possible to damage a solid state amp if the speaker impedance is under the minimum recommended load.

Once you use the DMM to test the speaker to make sure it isn't open and get a general idea of the impedance, then you can hook it up to an amp to make sure it works.

tung



Pickngrin said:
I'm not sure if I understood you correctly. Using a multimeter to test the speaker is a better way to check it than connecting the speaker to an audio source? I initially tried my digital multimeter and it read 1 on one of the speakers and I think it was just under 4 on one of the other ones. However, neither of those two speakers produce sound when connected to a live audio source.
 
tunghaichuan said:
Maybe I should have said safer. If you use a tube amp to check speakers and the speaker is open, you risk damaging the amp. It is also possible to damage a solid state amp if the speaker impedance is under the minimum recommended load.

Once you use the DMM to test the speaker to make sure it isn't open and get a general idea of the impedance, then you can hook it up to an amp to make sure it works.

tung

Oh, ok, I understand now. Unfortunately, neither of those two speakers produced any sound, even though one of them seemed to measure proper impedance on the multimeter. I've read that it's safe to run an amp like this (eg, a Super Reverb) with three speakers, but am I correct in thinking that only 2 speakers risks damaging the amp?
 
Pickngrin said:
Oh, ok, I understand now. Unfortunately, neither of those two speakers produced any sound, even though one of them seemed to measure proper impedance on the multimeter. I've read that it's safe to run an amp like this (eg, a Super Reverb) with three speakers, but am I correct in thinking that only 2 speakers risks damaging the amp?

It depends. What are the impedances of the two speakers? What was the overall impedance that the amp wants to see?

tung
 
I do think the 137-7534 indicates this:

137-cts manufacturer
75=year 1975
34=34th week made

Not sure on ohms for these:poke:(4 ohm id say:poke: )

Also maybe the coils are froze up and a recone on the vintage speakers would be better.(weber,orange county and others do this)Are these alnico" (that would be sweet) or ceramic mags?

The ceramics have big square magnets ,not sure how to describe the alnico magnet. speakers.........lil help ???:thwap:

Add to what tung said I think weber finally came out with a cts replacement the Weber CTA-,CTC-10's (CTA= alnico clones $65 ,CTC=ceramic clones$50 ) So maybe a couple of these would suffice.Just remember new speakers will develop its character sound the more break in hours you put on them !!Most sound a lil harsh new!!:AOK:
 
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One last comment.You stole this amp for cheap. Put quality stuff back in.In other words drop a c-note or 2 on 2 good speakers and have the verb fixed or replaced.JMHO!!
A jensen mod speaker wouldnt come close to that amp if mine:rotflmao:
 
Thanks for the speaker suggestions. MudCat - that sounds like a good speaker, but I just can't justify shelling out $200 on speakers at this point in time, particularly given that this amp is probably going to be too loud for my purposes at home.
Oh, by the way, Traynor/Yorkville emailed me back with a pdf of the owner's manual including schematic...very nice
 
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