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New trem blocks for import Strats

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I did have to rout the trem cavity a bit, Duff. I took out about 1/8"-3/16" from the high E side of the cavity to get enough clearance and to make the rout symetrical with the clearance at the other end. If you don't have a router, you could easily do it with half round and rat tail files. A Dremel tool would be a big help as well.
 
Bloozcat said:
I did have to rout the trem cavity a bit, Duff. I took out about 1/8"-3/16" from the high E side of the cavity to get enough clearance and to make the rout symetrical with the clearance at the other end. If you don't have a router, you could easily do it with half round and rat tail files. A Dremel tool would be a big help as well.

Do you think I'll have to do any routing on my Squier? From what I've heard, it should be a drop-in. Guess we'll find out soon!
 
bigoldron said:
Do you think I'll have to do any routing on my Squier? From what I've heard, it should be a drop-in. Guess we'll find out soon!

From what I've heard, it is a drop in, but I have no first hand experience there.
 
Blooz, I did have to do a little routing on the bass side. This IS a Squier Strat and not a Fender MIM Strat, so there may be a little variation there. But, a little routing and it dropped right in. The only problem, and it may not be one, is that the steel block sticks out the back of the body. I can't put the cover on because of the steel block.

I may just leave it like that or try to engineer a cover with a shim around the edges to give it enough clearance. The sustain does sound better! I'm still trying to get the action like I want it, but I'll get her there.

Overall quality of the trem kit does seem to be very good. Maybe a MIM or MIJ Strat body is a little thicker so the protruding block won't be a problem.
 
bigoldron said:
Blooz, I did have to do a little routing on the bass side. This IS a Squier Strat and not a Fender MIM Strat, so there may be a little variation there. But, a little routing and it dropped right in. The only problem, and it may not be one, is that the steel block sticks out the back of the body. I can't put the cover on because of the steel block.

I may just leave it like that or try to engineer a cover with a shim around the edges to give it enough clearance. The sustain does sound better! I'm still trying to get the action like I want it, but I'll get her there.

Overall quality of the trem kit does seem to be very good. Maybe a MIM or MIJ Strat body is a little thicker so the protruding block won't be a problem.

It sounds like your Squire body is a little on the thin side, like the Affinity Strat is. I had an after market Strat body that was like that, and I ground the trem block down until it was below flush with the back of the body. It was a bit of work to do, but it solved the problem.
 
Bloozcat said:
It sounds like your Squire body is a little on the thin side, like the Affinity Strat is. I had an after market Strat body that was like that, and I ground the trem block down until it was below flush with the back of the body. It was a bit of work to do, but it solved the problem.

From the serial number on the Squier, I've pretty much determined it's an Affinity series. Right now, I'm leaving it as is - REALLY don't want to start grinding on the trem block. I may contact Guitar Fetish and get their two cents on it.
 
bigoldron said:
From the serial number on the Squier, I've pretty much determined it's an Affinity series. Right now, I'm leaving it as is - REALLY don't want to start grinding on the trem block. I may contact Guitar Fetish and get their two cents on it.



Leave the cover off:rotflmao:
 
Yea it might not be good if it sticks out to far and is in the way:D Just giving you crap but even though I have a **** load to do you know im full of anticipation of coming home to Georgia or wherever we land:poke: (1 vote Georgia:wave: )
 
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Trem block

I would probably use my portable grinder and place the block in a vise and make a mark with a permanent marker and grind it down to where it will fit with a small amount of clearance. I don't think this will affect tone in any significant way. What other effect grinding might have I don't know, but I don't think there are anythings special on the bottom of the block.

An excellent option would be to make that permanent marker line and bring the block to a automotive machine shop and have them professionally grind it down for you with really high quality smooth equipment.

I am quite experienced with a grinder, grinding down weld joints, grinding many things. I can get a nice smooth even grind, most of the time; but it is easy to not get an even line and have it look messed up. That is where the automotive machine shop that does "heads" and things like that will be able to do a perfect job for next to nothing, possibly free.

Hope this helps you. Might as well have it right. If the block contacts anything it is going to mute it, to some unknown extent. I'd have it ground down without hesitation and put it in right.

Good luck with it and I'd like to hear how it turns out because I might order one with my next GFS order.

Duffy
 
Bloozcat said:
Well, if you have rock hard ABS, it might just help the sustain....:D

Check my avatar - not happenin'. You remember the old Special K "pinch an inch" ad campaign? I'm more of the "here, have a handful..." type. :rotflmao:
 
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