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Potentiometers

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Spudman said:
Blooz
Do you think for P90 equipped guitars that the 250k pots are best? 300k? 500k? Have you experimented? I'm thinking I need to put different pots in my LP with P90's because it just doesn't seem to be on the money yet. It's good but not good enough. I haven't checked the stock pots yet as to what value they are. I'm just curious what optimum might be?

I don't think there is one certain answer to that question. It depends a lot on the type magnet used, the wind, and the general tone of the wood in the guitar. Some LP's are heavier and tend to be boomier in the low end, while some are lighter and tend to have a more middy range. In most cases I find that P-90's don't need 500k pots. They are single coil pickups, afterall. Conversely, they won't respond well at all to 250k pots that are below 250k. P-90's are generally a little more powerful than std. single coils, so it stands to reason that they should have pots that are correspondingly higher in value as well. I prefer the 300k pots for most P-90's because they can go from about 270k-330k and still be within both the 10% tollerance of the pot, and within the usable range for P-90's (although I do prefer that they be at 300k). At one time Gibson used 300k pots in some of their guitars with both P-90's and humbuckers.

In your case, the first thing that I would do is this:

1) Define the tone as it exists now. Is it too muddy, too bright, too boomy, too sterile?
2) Define the tone you're looking to get.

After you've set your parameters, then set out to correct the deficiencies one at a time. First check the values of your pots, caps, and pickups to get a base line. Once you have that, you can understand how they're influencing the tone. If the tone is too muddy, the pots and/or caps may be below spec. If the tone is too bright, the pots and/or caps could be well above the optimum spec.

I'm waiting for a parts order to arrive any day now. After I finish installing a new toggle switch in my AS-73 semi-hollow, I'm going to rewire my Agile AD2500 including the installation of shielding and some new P-90's. I'll report on how that experiment goes, and what ends up working best.
 
Tim said:
This is really interesting information on pots. Like Tone, I am thinking of replacing the volume and tone pots in my Squire Tele Deluxe.
http://www.squierguitars.com/products/search.php?partno=0327502506

I am not sure what kind of pickups it has installed. Most likely low budget pups. The documentation just says: 2 Chrome Covered Humbucking Pickups (Neck/Bridge). The controls are also very scratchy when turned during a chord strum.

Anyway I was thinking of going to Stewart Mac to order some 500 K pots and a capacitor. I was not sure which cap to purchase. I was going to purchase a few extra values.

I have noticed when I use only my neck pickup and turn the tone control from 10 to a lower number, my volume decrease a lot. Then the tone just seems to go neutral. The bridge pickup sounds good and the tone control seems to work OK

Maybe I need to study this process a little closer before I do anything.


If it's anything like the Squire '51, it's got pretty cheap, dime sized pots and ceramic magnet humbuckers in it. IMO, Fender does a good job in providing a decent tone with these components...at the reasonable price they sell for. There's certainly a lot of room for improvement, though.

Here's a couple of alternative sources for pots and electronic parts like caps and resistors. The pots are CTS sold under the AllParts name. The electronics parts are various name brands. The caps I generally get from this source are the Sprague Orange Drops - 715P, 200v, and the Mallory 150's.

http://www.internetmusicsupply/
http://www.mouser.com

The IMS site is a little slow and quirky. Use the Netscape browser when ordering from them. For some reason, MIE doesn't work well at all...I don't know why. Anyway, the discount is worth the quirks.

Another decent pot that is sold by Guitar Fetish is the ALPHA pot. It's a little cheaper than CTS, but it's still a good pot.
 
This is very interesting Bloozcat. I'm gonna have to take a gander at my pots. I like to know how things work & why. Thanks!
 
tot_Ou_tard said:
This is very interesting Bloozcat. I'm gonna have to take a gander at my pots. I like to know how things work & why. Thanks!

Yeah, that's me too. I'm the kid who used to break things just to see how they work...:o
I just love tinkering with things, and building stuff. My wife says I have the "builders gene", because I'm constantly fixing or building things around the house.

I don't believe in calling the "repair man"...I'm him... :D

One caveat I feel compelled to add here with all this information about guitar electronics. If there's one thing I've learned throughout all of my experiences it's, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". Sometimes the best course of action is to leave well enough alone. For me it means having to fight that natural tendency to change something just because I can....not always the best course of action I've found.
 
Bloozcat said:
I'm waiting for a parts order to arrive any day now. After I finish installing a new toggle switch in my AS-73 semi-hollow, I'm going to rewire my Agile AD2500 including the installation of shielding and some new P-90's. I'll report on how that experiment goes, and what ends up working best.

We must have the same guitar. It is my Agile with the P90's that I'm talking about. Let me know how your switcharoo goes.
 
Bloozcat said:
Yeah, that's me too. I'm the kid who used to break things just to see how they work...:o
I just love tinkering with things, and building stuff. My wife says I have the "builders gene", because I'm constantly fixing or building things around the house.

I don't believe in calling the "repair man"...I'm him... :D

Blooz - I'm the same way hence the mechanical and electrical tools lying all over the house. I put some away the other day though in my defense.
 
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