Soldering Iron Recommendations

[Duff]

Soldering

I use regular, not large, needle nose pliers with rubber handles. Never gets hot to burn my hand like tweezers might.

Use leaded solder. I get mine at Radio Shack in about 1mm diameter, no affilliation. Radio shack carries the rosin core and you can buy it in small quantities for about five dollars.

When removing your old pup wires from the pots etc. you may encounter the problem that the solder will not melt. Repeat, the solder may not melt with your iron.

If this happens what I do is hold my low power pencil type iron on the solder for a few minutes until it finally melts, sometimes a little flus helps or rocking the side of the tip of the iron against the solder joint.

Why is this? Because the new manufacturing standards require that the big companies use the new lead free solder that melts at a higher temp. At first the assemblers in the other parts of the world didn't know how to effectively do a quality solder joint with the new hard to melt lead free solder and many problems ensued, such as cracked solder joints, especially noted on the Hot Rod Deluxe amps. I had mine resoldered by a pro tech under warranty shortly after I bought my HRDx. Very smart preventative measure. On that Kid's old Hot Rod Deluxe page which is still refered to extensively today he has pictures of burnt out PCBs because of the cracked solder joints from the early days when those assemblers didn't know how to handle the lead free solder. Ruined many an amp.

So, be patient and don't be surprised if you burn yourself with the iron. Also try not to let the hot side of the metal on the iron touch any surrounding wires or it will definitely melt the insulation off of them, I've done it. Try to move non target wires out of the way of where you are going to be working with the iron, gently of course. Remember where any wires you knock, break off came from and resolder them back in the same place.

Label wires if you need to with masking tape or something, this way you won't forget what goes where.

I sometimes even take a digital picture of the inside of the cavity with everything in place stock before I start modding. That way if I forget something I can go back to the photos and see where I may have gone wrong.

If you see a wire stripped bare about 3/4 inches long just laying against the wood under the bridge, this is normal and should remain this way. This is a common way of grounding the guitar but not a substitute for grounding your pups to the top of the pot where all the other grounds are.

It should be fun even though it sounds like a lot to it, it isn't.

We are just trying to share our past experiences with you so you are really ready for the job. I'm sure after reading all of our comments you are going to be completely prepared to do an acceptable, if not outstanding job.

When are you going to tackle the project?

Duffy

 

[just strum]

When are you going to tackle the project?

Duffy

Hopefully in the next couple of weeks. I will start ordering equipment/supplies tomorrow. The pups in the next couple of days.

Once I get started I may be bombing this place with questions, but I'll do that in my P90 thread. I think I may have mucked up this thread a little with my posts.:thwap:

 

[Duff]

Cool

No way. You didn't muck things up at all.

I have a spartan set up that works fine.

I have an old, like 30 year old weller 20 watt =+- pencil type soldering iron - like the ones on the welding stations except it is just one power and just plugs directly into the wall with no control box.

The one with the variable power would be best if you are going to continue to do this type of thing. Otherwise an inexpensive weller pencil type about 20 watts would be fine.

The Radio Shack solder is about five bucks and the can of paste flux with brush comes in really really handy for a novice and it costs probably about two dollars.

So for about fifty dollars you can have a top notch single power soldering rig with supplies with no problem. Why waste money? You might not enjoy doing mods. But then you could turn over a nice soldering rig really easy I'm sure right here on the fret.

I know quite a bit about soldering in pickups and might be able to help you just before you dive in. You can call me at 570 764 5705 any time. Sometimes you have to solder and tape off some wires you will not be using unless you are going to coil tap the pickups and get pots designed for coil tapping. This is a way bigger job than just putting in humbuckers or single coils because instead of substituting where wires go you have to dissassemble the whole pot, desolder all the wires and get them right on the new, different format pots. I have not split my coils yet because I usually just use the existing pots. Like two nights ago when I put a Fender Custom Shop Texas Special bridge pup in my '07 walnut stain Squire Standard Tele. Sounds unreal.

Duffy

 

[just strum]

So for about fifty dollars you can have a top notch single power soldering rig with supplies with no problem. Why waste money? You might not enjoy doing mods. But then you could turn over a nice soldering rig really easy I'm sure right here on the fret.

You have a point, this could be my first and last mod or I may only do one or two a year. If I go to another level, then I can look at a station. So if I do that, 20 watt is where I should be looking?

 

[Ch0jin]

I spent many years as a bench tech working on electronic goods so (for once) I have an informed opinion to share!!! Woo!!!

Sadly though, It's the same as everyone elses :thwap:

Nothing new from me, but for what it's worth, everyone in our old workshop used temp controlled Weller irons. Many of us had different preferences to favourite tips and solder even doing the same kind of work. My main rig was a dual iron Weller setup with a very thin iron for SMD/LSI work that was temp critical like the CMOS chips the old CCD camcorders used to use, and a 'normal' sized iron for 90% of my day to day needs. I also used a Hakko de-soldering station (like a soldering iron with a hollow tip and a vacuum pump). I used flux/resin cored solder exclusively. Some guys swore by the super thin stuff for fine work (working under a magnifier) but I hated it because there was bugger all flux in the core and I preferred to use thicker solder and rely on technique to avoid applying too much. Eventually as I found myself doing more and more SMD work I switched to solder paste and a specially made heat gun type of iron made specifically for this purpose.

So long story short.

- Back in the day Weller was most definitely the weapon of choice for pro's. Hakko was also regarded, but we never seemed to actually buy them.
- Thick solder is easier to use IMO as it contains more flux so is likely better for beginners. As I said though, amongst Pro's I worked with, thick/thin was a personal preference.
- Tips wise. Make them last longer by keeping your sponge wet and the crap off your tip. Probably not an issue for the casual user, but we had a beer penalty system in place for any of use who left irons turned on when we were not using them as tips burn out fast. Especially small ones. Sometimes I'd just wind the temp all the way down in between jobs though instead of turning it off.
- Temp controlled stations. I used them almost exclusively, but I definitely could have got away without one for most work. I also had a big old higher wattage iron in the drawer that I pulled out if I needed serious heat. If I were to buy another iron I doubt I'd spring for a temp controlled station just to work on amps and pedals.
- Direct powered Vs "Station" style. Whilst my current iron is a direct powered (power cable goes into the handle) Weller. I don't recommend them for anything other than very occasional work. The big fat thick power cable just gets in the way and has a habit of knocking stuff over, and off the bench. The irons that have the soft flexible cable from the base station to the iron are MUCH nicer to use and I lament the loss of mine every time I use my current one.
- Do use needle nose pliers, alligator clips or proper heat sink style clips whenever possible to stop whatever you are soldering getting too hot. When I soldered CMOS devices or Germanium Diodes/transistors I often use my fingers, not as a heat sink (although it works) but as a heat gauge. Too hot to hold means too hot for the device.
- If you buy a hand held solder sucker (a good thing to have by the way) here's a tip that may not be all that practical these days, but just in case. They all come with a slightly heat resistant plastic tip. If you use them often, the tip will melt and get clogged with solder and stuff and you'll eventually replace it. I repaired a heck of a lot of things with CRT's in them in the day and every time I replaced a HT transformer I'd cut the HT lead (the thick one with the big rubber cap) in half because the rubber (OK not rubber but some kind of silicon I guess) cap that was on the other end of the lead (where the lead goes into the transformer) is a perfect fit for the tip of a solder sucker, is highly heat resistant, and very soft and flexible so you can get some good suction happening. Because it's so soft after you've removed the solder, you can generally just twist the rubber tip between your fingers to clean out the solder thats been collected. I do not suggest trying to source your own by performing surgery on TV's left out for the rubbish man as CRT tubes contain voltages that can kill. Even if they don't kill you they hurt like a mofo if they get you, I know first hand. If know any TV repair dudes just ask them if they can score some for you.

OK thats enough for now, work beckons.

 

[Duff]

Weller

My hand held, cord goes from wall right into the pencil type soldering iron, is 25 watts, just checked and this is enough, with patience, to melt all the solder I've encountered, but sometimes with difficulty. My weller is very old, like 30 years and has regular phone cord cable, very flexible. Regular cable like a radio.

I bought a cheap Radio Shack piece of junk 40 watt one that lasted about 3 months before it burnt out. The 40 one would desolder things very quickly. I plan on getting a good quality 40 watt one.

Also, if you learn to do basic soldering, you will be able to fix all sorts of things around the house that break down. Usually all you need to do is resolder a shorted out wire, unplugged of course, or solder a wire back together that a dog chewed in half. I have saved a lot of money soldering wires back on terminals, back together, etc. And used quite a bit of electrical tape. And by the way, 3M electrical tape costs more but is far better to use than the cheap walmart or other cheap brands. This is something that you should pay a little more for and I've found 3M to make some good grades, they are even rated for the average temperature or temp extremes of the part you are going to use them at. Different types for very cold or hot places.

Hope this is encouraging. A quality iron is something you want. I wish I knew the brand names of some decent ones. Maybe Craftsman. Don't get the GUN type, they get in the way and melt other wire insulation.

As stated by ChOjin, maybe the quality of Weller has gone way down. My old one is a champ.

Duffy

 

[Ch0jin]

... And used quite a bit of electrical tape. And by the way, 3M electrical tape costs more but is far better to use than the cheap walmart or other cheap brands.

That is very true, however heat shrink is a MUCH better option. Electrical tape is for binding cables, not insulating them in my humble opinion

Don't get the GUN type, they get in the way and melt other wire insulation.

100% Spot on. I've never even seen one in a commercial workshop.

As stated by ChOjin, maybe the quality of Weller has gone way down. My old one is a champ.

Duffy

Umm, I didn't state that Weller quality has gone way down. Far as I know it's as good as ever, but I've been out of the repair game for at least 10 years so anything could have happened in that time.

 

[Duff]

Weller

Thanks ChOjin,

I'll probably buy a fourty or so watt Weller then. I like having a more powerful iron around for that new solder, know what I mean?

Have you encountered it, the lead free solder, in any of your guitars or amps?

It seems like I have but I'm no expert. Some of it takes forever to melt and some melts quickly.

Duffy

I'm playing myself to sleep right now with that avatar LP Epi with "hot rodded" Seymour Duncan pups on it thru my Delta Blues with the RP 350 in line on the SOLDLY model and drive on the amp a little tremolo and reverb, nice sound. What is SOLDLY model, Soldano or Soldano with delay? Need to check that manual.

 

[Ch0jin]

Have you encountered it, the lead free solder, in any of your guitars or amps?

No I don't think so. Then again all the stuff I work on is either old (pre ROHS), or made by me using "old" solder from the rolls and rolls of it I seem to have lying around still

I'm playing myself to sleep right now with that avatar LP Epi with "hot rodded" Seymour Duncan pups on it thru my Delta Blues with the RP 350 in line on the SOLDLY model and drive on the amp a little tremolo and reverb, nice sound. What is SOLDLY model, Soldano or Soldano with delay? Need to check that manual.

Wow, playing yourself to sleep with a Soldano patch? My POD has a Soldano SLO patch and it's a high gain harmonic rich monster!! Not exactly bed time music, in fact I find it hard to play more than a handful of notes through that patch before I'm doing pinch harmonics and other metal mania

 

[Duff]

Playing to sleep

This patch is really nice sounding at lowish volume, really rich and lots of other effects included in the factory patch to make it complex and actually very rewarding for me.

I play some really mellow things thru it to, like "Imagine", "Helpless", and songs I compose myself like one I especially like the emulates a freight train rolling accross the Great Plains at night far far away, speeding up and slowing down, and blowing the air horn for crossings. This can go from slow engine idling at the station stop, to accellerating, to flying off into the far distance. If you ever lived in the Great Plains, you can here those big old trains go on for miles at night and the space and time thing distorts the song so a little tremolo on my Delta Blues gives it that distorted space and time effect, playing gently into the fading distance. I like that railroad rythym.

I guess in some way I'm like the guy in Chuck Berry's, "Johhny B. Good", but not a star. Just a fantasy star.

Sometimes the reality of things is the opposite of what you think it is, kind of like playing that model late a night to help me relax. It's not like I'm shredding. I'm not a shredder. I'm a rock a roller and bluesman. Probably an intermediate level player but I practice every day and use all my guitars and most of my amps regularly.

Just bought my old Marshall Valvestate VS30R back today from the kid I sold it to for the same price, 75 dollars, super mint condition, probably nicer than some floor models and this amp is probably at least 20 years old dude.

You might be able to help me ChOjin. It sounds pretty awesome with the Celestion G10C speaker in it but the speaker is old and you don't get a lot of note distinction in chords, etc. I want to put an new quality speaker in it and am thinking of a Eminence Ragin' Cajun or something not as expensive as a Celestion, but with incredible sound for a Marshall totally solid state amp. No preamp tube in this model.

I want to wind up with a nice smooth sweet tone with plenty of sparkling cleans on the clean channel and a nice smooth, not raggeddy distortion on the drive channel. Like get something with a big magnet because I believe more mass produces a better sound, like in heavier amps sounding better. I'm probably wrong but there is something psychological there or maybe even metaphysical, to my ear.

So, I want to put in a nice 10 inch speaker that is very very sensitive, and not harsh at all, but sweet, chimey, and capable of sustain and a smooth distortion on the drive channel. Like to have a lot of clean headroom on the clean channel. I like Eminence speakers for the less expensive ones but am open to other ideas.

Is that "Swamp Thing" sensitive. The "Ragin' Cajun" is very sensitive and made my Fender Super Champ XD a LOT louder just going from like 95dB to like 101dB sensitivity of the speaker.'

I'm sure you know what I'm getting at dude. You are a professional and I respect that. I'm getting to be a fairly good nonpro tech though, I must say.

I am really happy that that old Marshall came back to me. I started recently, after I bought my Marshall MB30 bass practice amp, to regret selling it.

The Celestion speaker sounds muddy. Is this normal after about twenty years? Can I make it sound better? Should I check it out inside and look for puffed up capacitors or any other obvious problems? I can even resolder slight cracks in the PCB traces successfully and know how to look for cracked solder joints.

It sounds reasonably good though, I just think the speaker is worn out, not blown, just worn out and I want a crisper sound with more controlled sounds and a smooth drive sound that responds to the gain knob. This one doesn't seem to be too sensitive to turning the drive knob. Not much total range of drive apparent. Even the reverb seems to be of limitted intensity gain from zero to max. Everything works mechanically perfect and it looks brand new.

Duffy
Winfield, Pa.

Thanks in advance man. You are a very knowledgeable person, if not tuned in on all the latest and greatest technologies. There is something to be said for "tried and true". Engineers that don't know how to turn a screwdriver scare me. On the other hand some of the best mechanics I've known are engineers, they know the theory behind what they are doing and enjoy working with their hands, plotting, planning, and excuting their ideas in really interesting ways.

 

[ShortBuSX]

This patch is really nice sounding at lowish volume, really rich and lots of other effects included in the factory patch to make it complex and actually very rewarding for me.

I play some really mellow things thru it to, like "Imagine", "Helpless", and songs I compose myself like one I especially like the emulates a freight train rolling accross the Great Plains at night far far away, speeding up and slowing down, and blowing the air horn for crossings. This can go from slow engine idling at the station stop, to accellerating, to flying off into the far distance. If you ever lived in the Great Plains, you can here those big old trains go on for miles at night and the space and time thing distorts the song so a little tremolo on my Delta Blues gives it that distorted space and time effect, playing gently into the fading distance. I like that railroad rythym.

I guess in some way I'm like the guy in Chuck Berry's, "Johhny B. Good", but not a star. Just a fantasy star.

Sometimes the reality of things is the opposite of what you think it is, kind of like playing that model late a night to help me relax. It's not like I'm shredding. I'm not a shredder. I'm a rock a roller and bluesman. Probably an intermediate level player but I practice every day and use all my guitars and most of my amps regularly.

Just bought my old Marshall Valvestate VS30R back today from the kid I sold it to for the same price, 75 dollars, super mint condition, probably nicer than some floor models and this amp is probably at least 20 years old dude.

You might be able to help me ChOjin. It sounds pretty awesome with the Celestion G10C speaker in it but the speaker is old and you don't get a lot of note distinction in chords, etc. I want to put an new quality speaker in it and am thinking of a Eminence Ragin' Cajun or something not as expensive as a Celestion, but with incredible sound for a Marshall totally solid state amp. No preamp tube in this model.

I want to wind up with a nice smooth sweet tone with plenty of sparkling cleans on the clean channel and a nice smooth, not raggeddy distortion on the drive channel. Like get something with a big magnet because I believe more mass produces a better sound, like in heavier amps sounding better. I'm probably wrong but there is something psychological there or maybe even metaphysical, to my ear.

So, I want to put in a nice 10 inch speaker that is very very sensitive, and not harsh at all, but sweet, chimey, and capable of sustain and a smooth distortion on the drive channel. Like to have a lot of clean headroom on the clean channel. I like Eminence speakers for the less expensive ones but am open to other ideas.

Is that "Swamp Thing" sensitive. The "Ragin' Cajun" is very sensitive and made my Fender Super Champ XD a LOT louder just going from like 95dB to like 101dB sensitivity of the speaker.'

I'm sure you know what I'm getting at dude. You are a professional and I respect that. I'm getting to be a fairly good nonpro tech though, I must say.

I am really happy that that old Marshall came back to me. I started recently, after I bought my Marshall MB30 bass practice amp, to regret selling it.

The Celestion speaker sounds muddy. Is this normal after about twenty years? Can I make it sound better? Should I check it out inside and look for puffed up capacitors or any other obvious problems? I can even resolder slight cracks in the PCB traces successfully and know how to look for cracked solder joints.

It sounds reasonably good though, I just think the speaker is worn out, not blown, just worn out and I want a crisper sound with more controlled sounds and a smooth drive sound that responds to the gain knob. This one doesn't seem to be too sensitive to turning the drive knob. Not much total range of drive apparent. Even the reverb seems to be of limitted intensity gain from zero to max. Everything works mechanically perfect and it looks brand new.

Duffy
Winfield, Pa.

Thanks in advance man. You are a very knowledgeable person, if not tuned in on all the latest and greatest technologies. There is something to be said for "tried and true". Engineers that don't know how to turn a screwdriver scare me. On the other hand some of the best mechanics I've known are engineers, they know the theory behind what they are doing and enjoy working with their hands, plotting, planning, and excuting their ideas in really interesting ways.

Huh???

 

[Duff]

ShortBuSX

Yeah dude. The RP 350 sounds relaxing to me when I play myself to sleep. The SOLDLY model is complex and neat and I use it sometimes.

I got my old Marshall Valvestate VS30R back and am thinking of putting a new speaker in it, a sensitive one. I would like to get some ideas on what might be a good speaker for that amp.

And I developed a "train song", always a popular type of song, and it rocks and I find it really relaxing.

I also like to play "Free Bird" with that model. It sounds cool.

Chillin',

Duffy
Winfield, Pa.

Do you have any ideas for a ten inch sensitive speaker ShortBuSX?

 

[ShortBuSX]

Do you have any ideas for a ten inch sensitive speaker ShortBuSX?

Nope, but I bought some new tips for my soldering irons and they worked great!

My irons are so old that I didnt remember what a new tip was like...well that coupled with zero soldering skills. So as my tips aged my skills have improved...I was scared to get new tips, having learned on crappy ones(for so long).
For less than 2 bucks a tip I was soldering with much better control, I felt like a pro!
Cheap Radioshack soldering irons(30 and 40 watts) have worked great for me, I dont even have a fancy station.

What I find helps me the most is additional flux, buy a small tub of the stuff...even if your solder has flux already. I never realized how important(valuable) it was until somebody gave me some to use when working on his guitar(electronics). It makes your joint soak up the solder almost effortlessly.

 

[tunghaichuan]

Do you have any ideas for a ten inch sensitive speaker ShortBuSX?

I'm not ShortBuSX, but how about this one:

http://warehousespeakers.com/proddetail.php?prod=10inchguitar

SPL = 96dB/watt/meter

I've heard nothing but rave reviews for this company and its speakers and the price is right.

tung

 

[Duff]

Speaker

Thanks Tung! Actually the stock Celestion G10C is sounding better than I ever remember. But it has this small magnet and looks cheap.

ShortBuSX,

What was the "Huhh?" about? I didn't get that one.

Also, I use flux probably too much according to some but find it very helpful. The brush on paste type.

Also, I bought a 8 dollar 40 watt iron from Radio Shack and it burnt out inside the pencil metal ventillated part after only like 3 months. I'm reluctant to try another one but liked having that 40 watter in addition to my Weller 25 watter for quick melts. I want a new 40 watt one. I have about five projects planned for the immediate future.

Thanks for the input,

Duffy

 

[tunghaichuan]

Duff,

Thanks Tung! Actually the stock Celestion G10C is sounding better than I ever remember. But it has this small magnet and looks cheap.

Yeah, I love those little Marshall Lead 12 amps from the 80s but the stock speaker sounds really bad. Tinny, thin, grating. Replacing it really wakes that amp up.

Also, I bought a 8 dollar 40 watt iron from Radio Shack and it burnt out inside the pencil metal ventillated part after only like 3 months. I'm reluctant to try another one but liked having that 40 watter in addition to my Weller 25 watter for quick melts. I want a new 40 watt one. I have about five projects planned for the immediate future.

Duffy

You might consider getting the station Strum was asking about:

http://store.cs-sales.net/welowcosoirs.html

Not a lot of money, and will last a lot longer than those cheap Rat Shack irons.

tung

 

[Duff]

Soldering iron

Tung,

That is a nice soldering station for that price. Looks like it could do well for me.

Also,

I can't use that speaker. It is not available in 4 ohms. I will have to look around some more. The Jensen P10R is 4 ohms but is 90 dollars. I'll have to check out the ratings or check Celestion for a four ohm.

Any other four ohm speaker ideas for a thirty watt Marshall Valvestate VS30R in MINT condition for a old amp.

Duffy

 

[Ch0jin]

I can't help with speaker's much as I've never replaced one in a guitar amp.

The 12" Sheffield in my Peavey is pretty good. I'm sure I could get a better one if I started swapping different types in there, but I usually run that amp into my 4x12 anyway.

The speakers in the quad are 16 Ohm 12" jobs that are about 40 years old. They look like this. That's not my rig, but I have the same box in black.

Anyway....soldering irons huh

 

[Duff]

Soldering iron

Peavey makes really good guitars too. Too bad they don't make soldering irons.

I'm thinking of getting a Jensen Mod ten inch speaker, 39US. Might sound better than the stock Celestion I think is way worn out. Could be wrong though. It's not blown like my cheap Radio Shack 40 watt soldering iron is and it cost only 7US. Should have known.

I really like that little station Tung posted for like 39, I'm supposing US dollars.

What is the best type of tip, screwdriver - never heard of one of these - , flat, or conical for the type of soldering we do on amps and guitars?

I really like tha 5 - 40 watt range. That would serve a lot of purposes for me. I solder all sorts of things together like small appliances, speaker wires, headphone wires, radar detector cigarette lighter chewed off jacks, chewed in two extension cords, etc.

My just turned 6 new Newfoundland dog was a professional in a 200 foot long run with three females. Never had a puppyhood. So now he is experiencing his puppyhood at 6, it is really amusing, but he is really smart and mature and gets with the program way quicker than a puppy. He is soon to have his professional parts trimmed off. The paperwork is already in. Just waiting for the surgery date. Since his professional days are over, he is a house dog now and is getting domesticated, which is easy because he is the epitome of mellowness. No one would risk messing with me with him around though, if they were in their right mind. No one would want to take that chance. He weighs more than me and looks like a medium sized bear, black as coal. He is like 6 feet long tip of nose to tip of tail. When he begs for a dog biscuit it is like magnificent.

What an awesome dog and he gets along with my female black Lab that I used to think was big. She is 1/4 Blackmar's size. Should be less soldering coming up soon.

In fact, believe this: I had to solder my weller soldering iron cord back together just the other day. Had to use my propane torch. Hey, you're only a puppy once.

Duffy

 

[just strum]

Will this do the trick?

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...Id=10053&productId=100494070&N=10000003+90139

 

[Duff]

Strum

Says this when you hit the link:

The product you are trying to view is not currently available. And there is no picture.

Duffy

 

[just strum]

really, works for me.

Well it's BernzOmatic Leaded Solid Wire Solder leaded 60/40 rosin core.

 

[Duff]

Solder

That's the type thing I use.

I'm not a great expert on specific combinations ratios are best, but I would use this type as long as it's approved for electronics work.

What is the diameter of the solder?

I like to use about 1/16 of an inch approx. maybe a little thinner. Melts fast.

Get some paste flux and a brush and clean the places you are going to solder with the tip of an exacto knife or something to get any surface grease off and rough it up ever so slightly so the solder sticks better.

Bro finally got to me. I thought it was a good thread. Probably ended now, at least for me.

Duffy

 

[Swampy]

Have you heard of this one?
http://www.shop.cmlsupply.com/produ...6188B969FB0C0FBC935F.qscstrfrnt03?productId=7

 

[Bloozcat]

Have you heard of this one?
http://www.shop.cmlsupply.com/produ...6188B969FB0C0FBC935F.qscstrfrnt03?productId=7

Don't know about this one first hand, but here's a review of one of their more capable/higher priced units:
http://hackaday.com/2009/02/20/tools-aoyue-968-3-in-1-soldering-and-rework-station/

Aoyue is a Chinese made unit (what isn't made in China anymore?) that apparently closely mimics some of Hakko's models. From the gist of the above review, it sounds like Aoyue makes a good bang-for-the-buck soldering station for DIY'ers.

 

[Bloozcat]

For the DIY hobbyist on a very tight budget, this just might be the ticket:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/sho...ering+Station+051409&utm_campaign=email051409

For the cost of a plug-in 25watt iron (or less), you can get a station. At this price you could buy another one or two as back-ups.

 

[BrettS]

Hey!

FWIW, I used this DVD to refresh my soldering skills. Well worth the $$, especially if you don't have anyone who can show you firsthand.

I've got that DVD! Terry is just a great teacher, and that's a good production! My old soldering is just something I'm ashamed of...(nervermore)!

Thanks marnold, and o'course: Terry Downs. (No, I am not affiliated w/Terry in any way. Don't even know him.

 

[EARNEST]

Hi, guys. I am new here. I want to ask for some help. I want to buy more or less decent soldering station under like 50-60 euro($). I had in mind Weller WLC100 and Aoyue 937. Any suggestions, please? Thanks.
P.S. planning to build TS9 clone

 

[tunghaichuan]

Hi, guys. I am new here. I want to ask for some help. I want to buy more or less decent soldering station under like 50-60 euro($). I had in mind Weller WLC100 and Aoyue 937. Any suggestions, please? Thanks.
P.S. planning to build TS9 clone

The Aoyue looks similar to the Hakko 936. I'd be surprised if it weren't a direct copy. Weller is a good brand, so I don't think you could go wrong with it.

My personal favorite is the Hakko 936. I've been using mine and the same two tips for over ten years now.

tung

 

[EARNEST]

The Aoyue looks similar to the Hakko 936. I'd be surprised if it weren't a direct copy. Weller is a good brand, so I don't think you could go wrong with it.

My personal favorite is the Hakko 936. I've been using mine and the same two tips for over ten years now.

tung

Cheers.
I heard Weller's are quite overpriced:thwap: So not sure. I really like Hakko 936, but cannot afford that one right now...Nevertheless, if Hakko is a good investment and I won't regret it...should I buy it? I live in Europe, so not sure if that is a problem.