Soldering Iron Recommendations

[duhvoodooman]

Our resident amp-building guru, Tunghaichuan, highly recommends the following soldering iron for both pedal and amp work. You just need different tips for the small stuff vs. the bigger jobs. This is a temp.-controlled unit and gives you much more control and flexibility than the cheaper non-controlled units:

Iron: Hakko 936-12 ESD temperature controlled station

Tips: 900M-T-2.4D for amp work; 900M-T-2LD for PCB/pedal work

Tip Cleaner: Hakko 599B-02 bronze wool tip cleaner

Solder: Kester #66/34, SN63/PB37 eutectic solder; .062" for amp work, .031" for PCB/pedal work (not RoHS compliant, can't be used in California and Europe)​

The only real downside to this iron is that tips are not typcially available locally and you'll need to order them online. But they last a long tme, so that's a minor point.

You can get similar irons from Weller; they cost a bit more for comparable features, but have the advantage of being widely available.

 

[sunvalleylaw]

So that is better than my el cheapo Radio Shack one, huh? ;-)

 

[tunghaichuan]

So that is better than my el cheapo Radio Shack one, huh? ;-)

Uh, yeah

Seriously though, the main problem with the Radio Shack irons is that they burn out tips fast due to crappy, cheapo plating on them. I've used the same two tips for my Hakko since I got it 8 years ago, and they are still going strong.

This is a case of getting what you pay for.

tung

 

[sunvalleylaw]

Ya, I did not know what I was doing when I got mine. It is a very inexpensive, dual wattage one. Even by RS website standards, it is cheap.

 

[Spudman]

Great thread. I was just thinking "what iron should I get to improve my soldering skills?" I appreciate those suggestions Voodoo.

 

[tunghaichuan]

Ya, I did not know what I was doing when I got mine. It is a very inexpensive, dual wattage one. Even by RS website standards, it is cheap.

No need to appologize, I started out on one of those Rat Shack irons, too

One thing that a temperature controlled station does is allow you to make nice, consistent joints.

If you don't want to spend the cash on a temperature controlled station, sometimes you can find a nice non-temperature controlled iron (like a high quality version of the Rat Shack iron) made by Hexacon, Weller, Unger, or American Beauty. The tips tend to last longer than RS irons, but not as long as the temp controlled irons.

tung

 

[tunghaichuan]

Resources for learning how to solder:

http://www.astro.umd.edu/~harris/docs/WellerSoldering.pdf

http://www.aaroncake.net/electronics/solder.htm

http://www.arrl.org/tis/info/pdf/7308016.pdf

http://www.robotstore.com/download/How_to_solder_1.pdf

http://www.epemag.wimborne.co.uk/solderfaq.htm

Video tutorials:

http://tangentsoft.net/elec/movies/

Excellent, worth watching. Geared mainly to PCBs, but useful information.

tung

 

[Bloozcat]

The 25w Weber irons from Home Depot have the same problem...they burn tips out pretty fast. I have one and I've just compensated by having spare tips in stock.

But, as with everything else I seem to do, it's probably just a matter of time until I upgrade to a better unit...

 

[duhvoodooman]

The 25w Weber irons from Home Depot have the same problem...they burn tips out pretty fast. I have one and I've just compensated by having spare tips in stock.

Yep, my experience, too. I've had two of these and they do a nice job on small stuff, like effect pedal work:

Weller Marksman 25W Iron​

But they go through tips like crazy. The chisel-style tips in particular seem to wear out fast--somewhere between one and two pedal projects, and they need to be replaced. So, like Bloozcat, I keep a stock of spares.

The power cord connection down in the handle seems to be a weak design, though. My first one failed because the power started flickering on and off, and now this 2nd one is starting to do the same thing. Time to go for a Hakko, methinks....

 

[Rocket]

These are what I've been using on my bench for last 6 years... never had a single problem with either:

MPJA Model 302A, 40W Temperature controlled soldering station with digital temperature control & display, grounded tip, ceramic heater and comfort grip handle. Easy off connector for easy replacement oh handle/heater. Adjustable Temperature range: 200 deg. "C" to 480 deg. "C" (392-896 “F”). Fused line. 117 VAC.
WT: 4.7

MASTECH Model HY3003
Input: 110 VAC 60Hz
Output: 0-30VDC @ 0-3A Constant Voltage or Current
Specifications/Features: Enclosed bench supply with dual LED displays for output Volts & Amps. .02% Line /.01% Load regulation, <1mV RMS ripple. Front binding posts.
CE listed.

 

[Bloozcat]

That Hakko must be another big Japanese conglomerate. They make a bunch of optics for a lot of big names in the industry as well. They seem to market very few under their own name, though. I do know them to produce quality stuff. I'll have to check out one of their soldering irons.

 

[tunghaichuan]

That Hakko must be another big Japanese conglomerate. They make a bunch of optics for a lot of big names in the industry as well. They seem to market very few under their own name, though. I do know them to produce quality stuff. I'll have to check out one of their soldering irons.

One reason that I recommend the Hakko 936 is that it is inexpensive, sturdy, and works well. There certainly are others worth considering, especially Weller's temperature controlled station. It tends to be a bit more expensive than the Hakko, but I've seen tips for Weller irons at my local electronics store. I don't have any direct experience with the Weller.

The Hakko does offer tremendous bang for the buck, especially when you can get one on sale.

tung

 

[just strum]

To those making recommendations - does this also apply to doing work on guitars - pups, pots, and switches?

 

[tunghaichuan]

To those making recommendations - does this also apply to doing work on guitars - pups, pots, and switches?

For this type of work, I use the 900M-T-2LD tip. It doesn't have as much mass as the other one, so it won't overheat your joints as fast. Still, with good soldering technique, you should be able to use either tip.

Here is another recommendation: get a pair of locking hemostats. They're like $2-$3 at army navy surplus stores. Clamp these on to whatever you're soldering to act as a heat sink.

tung

 

[duhvoodooman]

Here is another recommendation: get a pair of locking hemostats. They're like $2-$3 at army navy surplus stores. Clamp these on to whatever you're soldering to act as a heat sink.

Small alligator clips work pretty well, too.

 

[tunghaichuan]

Small alligator clips work pretty well, too.

Good point, and alligator clips are less likely to damage fragile components like hemostats can.

tung

 

[marnold]

FWIW, I used this DVD to refresh my soldering skills. Well worth the $$, especially if you don't have anyone who can show you firsthand.

 

[Duff]

Irons

At Radio Shack a couple months ago I decided I needed to get a fourty watt iron to supplement my fifteen watt pencil type, so I picked up a RS fourty watt pencil type iron for eight dollars. I thought that was too cheap because my fifteen watt one at Wmart or somewhere similar was at least twice as much.

I was thrilled with the massive heat of the fourty watt iron and its ability to desolder big piles of solder quick, etc.

I found out why it was eight dollars about a month later maybe two months, when it failed. I took off the tip cleaned it up and noticed the electronic parts inside the tube just below the tip were completely burned out, shorted or whatever.

Close examination revealed the RS fourty watt iron to be JUNK. An attempt to return it was frowned upon with the statement that it had a thirty day warranty. I can see why.

My fifteen watt weller is many many years old and is an old standby with the original tip that I scrape off with the back side of an exacto knive and then flux and apply a thin layer of electronic type solder to it which I get from RS because solder with lead in it is hard to find anywhere else. Lead containing solder melts at a much lower temperature than the lead free type, apparantly, unless there is some type of lead free I don't know about.

Using flux when soldering in small amounts and tinning the iron first are major preparatory steps you can take to ensure outstanding solder joints.

I'm going to get a quality higher power iron. Where is a source for the good one discussed in this thread?

Thanks in advance,

Duffy

 

[tunghaichuan]

Duff,

I buy most of my soldering supplies here:

http://www.wassco.com/

They are priced higher than most though:

http://www.wassco.com/Products/Hakk...th-Iron-Holder-(ESD-Safe)__WAS-02-126612.aspx

Just Google "Hakko 936" and you'll get a bunch of results under shopping:

http://www.google.com/products?q=ha...a=X&oi=product_result_group&resnum=1&ct=title

Some of the stores are rated, so it give you an idea how good the service is.

There are some problems with the new lead-free solder, namely the one you mentioned: it melts at a much higher temperature than leaded solder. This makes it easier to over heat and damage componenets. Lead-free solder also can develop "whiskers" which can short to other parts of the circuit. Not good.

tung

 

[ET335]

Here is another nice soldering station that I use all the time and not that expensive either and the tips are easy to find and not expensive.
I got this one on sale for 119.95 a year ago.

here is a link to the web site where I got this one.

http://www.lashen.com/vendors/CooperTools/Weller_solder_stations.asp

 

[just strum]

Getting ready to perform surgery on the Washburn soon, any more suggestions on irons, tips, supplies?

I am not going to become a mod nut (I remember saying I don't see the need for more than one guitar), so I want something that provides quality results, but not something that will break the bank (small bank)

Considering two already mentioned:


http://www.mpja.com/productsdirect.a...item4=15141+TL

http://www.kimcodistributing.com/sto...FQZlswodVQLC-w

 

[tunghaichuan]

Getting ready to perform surgery on the Washburn soon, any more suggestions on irons, tips, supplies?

I am not going to become a mod nut (I remember saying I don't see the need for more than one guitar), so I want something that provides quality results, but not something that will break the bank (small bank)

Considering two already mentioned:


http://www.mpja.com/productsdirect.a...item4=15141+TL

http://www.kimcodistributing.com/sto...FQZlswodVQLC-w

Hmm... Neither one of those links worked for me.

I get a catalog from MCM Electronics all the time. This looks like a decent iron:

http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/DISTRIBUTED-BY-MCM-S-3124-/21-980

and is not that much.

This Weller station might not be that bad:

http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/WELLER-WLC100-/21-3475

I don't know much about this brand, but it has a 1-year warranty:

http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/TENMA-21-7945-/21-7945

tung

 

[just strum]

Hmm... Neither one of those links worked for me.

try this

http://www.mpja.com/productsdirect....&item2=15845+TL&item3=15140+TL&item4=15141+TL

http://www.kimcodistributing.com/st...61&ITEM_ID=7&gclid=CMeah8r_iJcCFQRkswodjXUC9w

 

[tunghaichuan]

try this

http://www.mpja.com/productsdirect....&item2=15845+TL&item3=15140+TL&item4=15141+TL

http://www.kimcodistributing.com/st...61&ITEM_ID=7&gclid=CMeah8r_iJcCFQRkswodjXUC9w

I have the Hakko station, so I'm biased towards that one. The other station is half the price of the Hakko. The ZD Electronic Tools station may last as long, or it may not. It is hard to say; I have no experience with it.

I've had my Hakko station for at least 10 years, and the two replacement tips I got for it are still going strong. It may be overkill for what you want to do, so take that into account.

tung

 

[F_BSurfer]

Pass on the the ZD you will spend a lot of time trying to keep your tip ready to solder and they don't last long... tips are cheap pot metal

 

[just strum]

I found this

http://store.cs-sales.net/welowcosoirs.html

they are selling it for $8 to $20 less than some of the other sites. Read some reviews and people say they've been using theirs for 10+ years.

Any suggestions on tips?

 

[tunghaichuan]

I found this

http://store.cs-sales.net/welowcosoirs.html

they are selling it for $8 to $20 less than some of the other sites. Read some reviews and people say they've been using theirs for 10+ years.

Any suggestions on tips?

That station looks like a winner for light duty hobby work. :AOK:

For tips, I'd get:

http://store.cs-sales.net/wesctip2wiw.html

http://store.cs-sales.net/wesctip3wiw.html

I like the screw driver tips (also called "chisel tips") better than the conical types.

Those two should get you through most guitar soldering projects. If you think you want to start amp projects, I'd get a bit bigger tip as well:

http://store.cs-sales.net/wesctip4wiw.html

tung

 

[mrmudcat]

nice suggestions

 

[just strum]

a few more questions and any additional suggestions/recommendations welcome:

Solder: what size do you find is best to use for working on pups and pots?. Watching video and reading some articles it seems to run from 025 to 050, I was going to get something like 032.

Solder: 63/37 rosin is what I was planning on getting, but having problems locating the right solder - where do you buy yours and is this ok? The place where I am buying the station only has lead free.

http://wassco.com/Departments/Solde...lders/Wire-Solder/Solid-Core-Wire-Solder.aspx

Tweezers: I see them from a few dollars to $75, will something like this take care of the work I am doing?

http://wassco.com/Products/Tweezer--00-SA-Tweezers--Economy-Fine-Tip__WAS-03-98100.aspx

Helping hands:

http://store.cs-sales.net/hh55.html

I've settled on this station (I think)

http://store.cs-sales.net/welowcosoirs.html

 

[tunghaichuan]

Solder: what size do you find is best to use for working on pups and pots?. Watching video and reading some articles it seems to run from 025 to 050, I was going to get something like 032.

I use .031" for PCB and FX soldering, .062" for amps, pots, and guitar wiring. .050" would probably be okay. You don't want to glob on the solder, just enough to cover the joint.

Solder: 63/37 rosin is what I was planning on getting, but having problems locating the right solder - where do you buy yours and is this ok? The place where I am buying the station only has lead free.

http://wassco.com/Departments/Solde...lders/Wire-Solder/Solid-Core-Wire-Solder.aspx

You don't want solid core solder, you want rosin core. If you use solid core, you'll have to use flux in addition to the solder.

I'm not sure if this has lead in it or not:

http://wassco.com/Products/Kester-Solder--44-SN63-062-dia__WAS-IP2-01-02015.aspx

I use the leaded version. I bought a huge roll at a hamfest about 10 years ago and still have about half of it. Kester 44 used to have lead in it, but I'm not sure about now.

Tweezers: I see them from a few dollars to $75, will something like this take care of the work I am doing?

http://wassco.com/Products/Tweezer--00-SA-Tweezers--Economy-Fine-Tip__WAS-03-98100.aspx

I dunno, I don't use tweezers, so I can't help you here.

Helping hands:

http://store.cs-sales.net/hh55.html

Those are very useful for holding two parts so you can keep them stable while the solder solidifies.

I've settled on this station (I think)

http://store.cs-sales.net/welowcosoirs.html

Looks like a winner.

You also might want to look into wire cutters and wire strippers.

tung