This is how I string my guitar

[Robert]

I prefer locking tuners, but for a typical guitar with a hole through the tuning peg, this is my method -

 

[sumitomo]

Good job Robert,the only thing I could add is to save that piece of E string to un clog your window squiters in your car or use it in your tattoo gun(homemade of course from a tape player motor).Sumi

 

[Spudman]

Good vid Roberto.

I'm 50/50 on that method. I use it on some guitars but not all and the ones that I switch back and forth on this method with I don't really notice a stability difference. Maybe it's because I have good tuners on those guitars?

 

[Robert]

If you wind the string enough around the post (3 laps or more, with no slack in there anywhere), I imagine it should work perfectly well.

Good tuners sure help! The cheapos that come with these 1-200 dollar guitars are usually pretty sketchy. My MK is so-so in this regard. Could definitely be better. :french

 

[Eric]

Good tuners sure help! The cheapos that come with these 1-200 dollar guitars are usually pretty sketchy. My MK is so-so in this regard. Could definitely be better.

Question about this: I know people complain about bad tuners a lot, and I have some on a $100 guitar that are not smooth at all, but how does this affect tuning stability?

What I thought was if the nut is bad it can pinch the strings, and string bends while playing would pull the slack string through the nut, right? There is a similar phenomenon with the slack around the tuning pegs, which is why locking tuners are good, yes?

My question is about tuners -- do the tuners themselves actually rotate while you play, causing the guitar to de-tune? Other than the things mentioned above (pinching nut, wound string slack being tightened), I can't think of anything else that would make tuners affect the tuning stability of a guitar.

If the tuners do rotate while playing, that's quite odd, and even more odd that the non-smooth tuners are the ones that are less stable.

 

[duhvoodooman]

Exactly the method I use with all my non-locking tuner guitars. :AOK

 

[Rampant]

I'd add that the string should wind 'down' the tuning peg towards the headstock as you wind them on, not allowing the string to wind over itself. Finished article should be tidy and like a coil spring.

I use more coils (about 5) on the top e string and less on the botom E (about 2) and progressively in between across the headstock.

Cheerz

Mark H

 

[kiteman]

How I string my guitars with non lockers. Works good but I don't give 'em that much slack, just enough for the string to wind over the kink.

 

[sunvalleylaw]

Well I finally re-strung my strat tonight. Looooonnnnnnggggg overdue. I used GHS Boomers, the Gilmour 10-48 set, that I have had laying around since I started thinking about changing my strings, like a year ago. :what

Robert, can you sticky this thread, as I always seem to need a reminder on how to re-string? Not the most spatially adept person. It is always good for me to measure thrice and cut twice, . . . or something like that.

 

[ZMAN]

Good job Robert,the only thing I could add is to save that piece of E string to un clog your window squiters in your car or use it in your tattoo gun(homemade of course from a tape player motor).Sumi

Sumi: You are starting to scare me. LOL

 

[msteeln]

The BB King method - don't cut the string, wind the whole friggin thing onto the post!

 

[mainestratman]

I use a "1 over, 2 or 3 under" method, which I've never really had a problem with it.. although from what I understand, Gibson tuners are not really ever that great. I'm thinking about upgrading to some Grovers, but only if I can find irrefutable proof that their "Vintage" winders are any better.

 

[sunvalleylaw]

I just did my Hagstrom too. First string change for me on that guitar. The trapeze bridge took a little getting used to, but was really quite easy after figuring it out on the first string. Did a nice polish and cleanse too while I was at it. Feels like new shoes!

 

[Spudman]

Feels like new shoes!

You are the only guy I know that walks on his guitar. Strange.

I really like Kiteman's way too. A few guitars I have that don't have the best tuners get that version of restringing.

 

[evenkeel]

I re-string very much like Robert with a couple small differrences.

1. Start with the hole in the peg at 90 degrees to the fretboard.
2. With the non winding hand both hold the string in place at the nut AND maintain tension as you wind.
3. Have a bit less winds on the low and high E's than on the D and G strings. Facilitates a downward pressure on the nut.
4. Always work outside to inside. Start with the Low E, then the A and D. then high E, B and last the G. Just is easier for me.
5. Finally give those strings several steady pulls, tune and repeat, tune and repeat to get the strings tight on the peg and all the stretch out of 'em.

Now the slot-head, that's a whole different mess involving blood and swearing. :thwap

 

[navvid]

With all due respect to the many very knowledgeable people who have contributed here, I think I must disagree with most of you. I have tuned and strung my fair share of guitars over the years and here is my honest opinion:

1st and most important is that the machine head be strung properly. Even crappy tuners in my experience will hold a tune pretty well as long as this is done.

Given the first thing is done, obviously the quality of the tuner is important. I personally do not believe in locking tuners. The precision of the machining in the manufacture of the worm gear mechanism is what determines how well it will hold tune. It doesn't matter if your tuner locks the string in the capstan (as most locking tuners do, pinching it in the hole), if the capstan moves because there is lash in the gear mechanism behind it. If properly strung, the string will kink at the point it passes through the capstan (the hole in the peg for the string) locking it in place. It will not slip at that point. Then I suggest no more than two coils of string around the capstan. More coils just gives more string to stretch and slip, and tuning feels more direct with less coils. Tying the various knots I see people make has the same effect, or depending on the knot, causes the string to pass through the hole at a funny angle so it doesn't really make a sharp kink towards where it coils down the capstan. That kink effectively locks the string in place there, especially once there is a coil of string below pushing against it.

Here's how I string my heads:



My guitar never goes out of tune for no reason. Also, all these other methods take more time, which as I get older, I appreciate the value of more and more.

I strongly recommend Schaller sealed full oil bath machine heads. Made in Germany to very exacting tolerances. Finest money can buy. And you will pay for them. Their gold plated machines are particularly nice, hand polished. I love the set I bought for my dreadnaught. They weight 45.6 grams each with the screw (that's heavy), and they are beatiful. This will immediately also have the effect of improving your sustain, as it effectively weights the headstock.

 

[Bloozcat]

I use a "1 over, 2 or 3 under" method, which I've never really had a problem with it.. although from what I understand, Gibson tuners are not really ever that great. I'm thinking about upgrading to some Grovers, but only if I can find irrefutable proof that their "Vintage" winders are any better.

This is the method I've always used - 1 over, 3 under.

In reality, there's probably several effective methods. What works for you is what's best...:AOK

 

[Stringtreat]

You must put as much of the string as possible on non locking tuners, in a nice even wind with no overlapping. On strats I use a lube on all string contact spots & all metal to metal contacts on the bridge assembly. I break a lot of strings at the bridge so I feed the broken string back thru the bridge and tie the end back on, sometime this makes it difficult to get the ends out of the string holes in the block when I want to restring the guitar so I use a short piece of bass string to push the old end out.

 

[otaypanky]

You must put as much of the string as possible on non locking tuners, in a nice even wind with no overlapping. On strats I use a lube on all string contact spots & all metal to metal contacts on the bridge assembly. I break a lot of strings at the bridge so I feed the broken string back thru the bridge and tie the end back on, sometime this makes it difficult to get the ends out of the string holes in the block when I want to restring the guitar so I use a short piece of bass string to push the old end out.

You're kidding, right?

 

[otaypanky]

I'm definitely a fan of not over-wrapping the string around the post. Like some of the posters above, I believe it deadens some of your tone and makes the guitar more prone to go out of tune. Strung like that, with brand new strings, I can do a few gentle stretches of the strings and be good to go and not have to worry about going out of tune. I bend the daylights out of my strings. I use 10's and 11's depending on the guitar and my mood. My guitars stay in tune and I never break strings

 

[Robert]

I find 2-3 laps around the post is about right. I don't like over-wrapping either.

 

[deeaa]

1 over 3 under is by far the best method. At least never put more coils there. You can get by with just 1,5 loops but it's more difficult to string, 1-3 method is super easy and quick and never loses the tune.

Tuners have to be really ****** to affect tuning stability...more like bad tuners make it very hard to GET it in tune but even the worst ones stay in tune well enough...just the getting there can be very hard.

 

[gordy_sg_no1]

the joys of the EZ locking wilkinson is they are a pig to restring, the need for pliers to keep it neat with them is awful.i came across these on an esp i worked on around a year or so and that was a head scratcher to restring. i have both Locking and non locking tuners on my gig guitars and to be honest im more a fan of non locking a good technique is the key to it thats all you need.

 

[kiteman]

These are the best I've ever bought.

They're Steinberger tuners.

 

[deeaa]

In retrospect, the best tuners by far are fine-tune tailpieces such as the Gibson TP-6 and those. On those guitars I hardly ever touch the actual tuners once the first tuning is done. Which reminds me I still need one for my Flying-V. They're the best!

 

[Andy]

2 of my guitars have the gotoh magnum lock tuners , there are so easy to use I'm not sure why people have trouble with them. tighten string and it locks as soon as it see's tension.. unwind to unlock.
they are very reliable with zero slippage. I'm fine with non locking tuners as well
it's just what those 2 guitars came with.

 

[weekendclimber]

One thing I would add, and I don't think anyone has mentioned it: instead of using wire snips to cut the leftover ends off, if you bend the string back and forth a bunch of times this will cause the string to eventually break right next to the hole in the tuning peg. This way you don't have to worry about pricking yourself when your hands are around the headstock.

 

[deeaa]

I think I'll try that weekendclimber. I just worry I leave so little string there...might slip then. Will try.

 

[weekendclimber]

You do raise a good point. It's best used when doing the one-over-then-under stringing method (always done this ever since I got paid to string peoples guitars). The the string pinches the little bit left so there is no slippage.

 

[deeaa]

1 Over 1 under is what I use. So it won't break too far in the hole? That sounds good, then! Thanks for the tip!